Just a look into Gods Own Country - Kerala

Local boat into Alleppey backwater community

Our much-desired and always postponed, vacation in the famed Kerala backwaters happened only because a friend suggested staying together  at Rain Forest resort in Athirappilly since they were planning a family visit to that area. Just the trigger we needed! We added about 6 days of travel around Kerala before we joined them and that of course included a houseboat stay!

Kumarakom Backwaters - Backwater Breeze Homestay - 2 days

Alleppey - Riverinecruises Houseboat - 1 day
Fort Kochi - Mothers Inn Homestay - 2 days
Athilrappilly - Rain Forest Resort - 1 day

Timings

Time, comfort, or convenience was not a factor for us which let us explore Kochi public transport fully. We landed at around 10am and had several hours to reach our homestay, Backwaters Breeze, Kumarakom for lunch. Coming out of Kochi airport, its metro feeder bus stop to Aluva, the north endpoint of Kochi Metro, is just a few hundred metres away. We boarded one after resting in a comfortable waiting area for about 15mins. The bus was clean and comfortable. From Aluva  to SN Junction, its last stop Metro took about an hour where we alighted. We took an Auto instead of walking to the nearest local Bus stop. When we told the driver our final destination, he advised us to take a bus to Vaikom first and then another to Kumarakom. Convinced, we boarded the next local with the local commuters on way to Vaikom which came almost immediately. It was a basic bus and crowded but clean. The bus stop at Vaikom was large and nice. However the bus to our destination was not there and didn't arrive for almost 30 mins! Many locals who were also waiting for the same bus gave us good company. Since this was exactly the type of experience we desired we were quite contented waiting along without getting anxious. :). It was a short ride from there and we took an auto (2 km) from final stop to our homestay. Overall it was easy and fun as long as you have the time and don't care much for comfort.

Metro feeder bus at Kochi Airport

Kochi Metro

Inside Kochi Metro

Vaikom Bus Stop

Bus from Vaikom to Kumarakom 

The breakup for this leg for those interested in details (like me :) ).

Cost  Mode  From to destination

120  bus     kochi airport to aluva metro

120  metro aluva to SN Junction, thripunithara
50    auto   station to bus stop
66    bus    thripunithara to vaikom
46    bus    vaikom to kaipuzhamuttu 
80    auto   kaipuzhamuttu to backwaters breeze
Total: 482 Rupees (4hr30mins). 

Airport prepaid quoted 3300 Rupees (~2hrs)

Balcony view Backwaters Breeze, Kumarakom

After our slow but fun commute, it was a nice lunch near the homestay with our first taste of Kerala fried fish with awesome views at their dabha like minimal partner restaurant. Homestay is simple and comfortable enough for us with some wonderful views from the long balcony. Here we did mostly birdwatching, eating, and relaxing. One of the days (9am to 4pm) we walked all the way to Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, about 3kms which was quite strenuous. Sanctuary itself was well-kept and wonderful to walk through but birds were scarce. We did enjoy encounters with Tortoises and Monitor lizards quite up close. We chose to take an ad-hoc boat, a bit of backwater experience, on the way back to drop us off near the road and then took an auto back to our homestay. Birdwatching around the homestay was quite fruitful. Highlight was 10s of Blue tailed Bee-eaters and 100s of Baya weavers foraging in the morning and evenings over the fields.

Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary Map

View from Homestay balcony

Lunch on Homestay balcony

Lunch in adjoint partner restaurant

Sunset over backwaters from homestay

Our next activity was a night in House boat. We had booked for a 1 BR houseboat with TIK Holidays. Our host suggested public ferry run by Kerala State Water transport to cross Lake Vembanad to Muhamma first and then auto or bus. This was great advice as public ferry was like a tourist activity for just 10Rs with lovely views of the huge lake. There was autos available at Muhamma Jetty. We could take one to the closest bus stop and then a bus to Alleppey or directly by auto to our boathouse. We chose the latter as we didn't have time. It was a quick 45 min ride and soon we were checking out our comfortable houseboat.

Inside Ferry to Muhamma

Ferry doing U Turn at boarding point

Ferry timings

Waiting area at Kumarakom boarding point

Auto from Muhamma to Alleppey

The houseboat experience was exciting and fun as it was the first time for us. Our trip went something like this. 12noon check-in. We sailed out into the backwaters quickly and had freshly prepared lunch while docked alongside the channel. We continued to sail among 10s or even 100s of other boats deeper into the channels. Around 5pm, a local boatman came alongside and offered a ride in a small boat into the narrower channels where local people resided for 1000 Rs.(2 of us). We took the offer and felt it was well worth it as it gives a glimpse of the backwater community, ex we saw school children dropped back home in a boat! Docked for night and had dinner of freshly cooked tiger prawns that were purchased by us at a shop along the way. Morning breakfast and returned to starting point by 10am.

Lunch on houseboat

Fresh catch from Backwater Fish shop

Relaxing on houseboat

Local boat into Backwater village

Our next stop was Fort Kochi. We decided to stop for an hour to check out Marari beach which was along the way. Since the beach was a little bit inside from the bus route, we were advised to book an auto which would take us to the beach, wait an hour and then drop us back on the highway. This worked well. Beach itself is small with not much to do other than walk up and down. The bus ride to Fort Kochi was fun as it started raining. 

Bus to Fort Kochi

Soon, we reached our homestay, Mother's Inn and settled into their quaint little heritage house turned into a B&B. Evening, we walked to Vasco Da Gama Square, checked out the Chinese fishing nets and ate at Kashi Art Cafe. We capped off the night with a show on Kathakali. Next day, we took an auto to Mattancherry and roamed around the Jew town. It has the 500 year old Paradesi synagogue. Our lunch was at Ginger House which has a very scenic dining place overlooking the port. Return was by local bus and we took the obligatory Kerala oil massage near our homestay.  Finally it was onto our last stop in Athirappilly. 

Kathakali at Fort Kochi

Lunch at Ginger House, Mattancherry

Murals in Mattancherry

Jew town Mattancherry

Here we used the newly launched Kerala Water Metro to cross the bay to Ernakulam by taking a local ferry to Vypin just to try it out. It was worth it and done very nicely. From Ernakulam we took what was advertised as express bus to Chalakudy from where we could get another bus to Athirappilly. However we were late and the bus was definitely not express, stopping everywhere. So, we hopped off midway and booked a taxi to our resort. This ensured we just made it before lunch closed. Of course with more time we would have stayed on as the connecting local bus stops at the entrance of the resort itself.

Kochi Water Metro

Mothers Inn Homestay Fort Kochi

Athirappilly resort is very well designed and located. We thoroughly enjoyed the visual treat that it provided every which way you look out from the resort. The following day, we took an auto to Vazhachal waterfalls which is about 5km away and walked back on the highway. This is surely fun and adventurous to do if you have the time and are fit, as it provides up close experience of the forest, Chalakkudy river and the Charpa waterfalls on foot while the traffic struggles along the congested narrow hill road alongside. We had lunch at a local restaurant and left by cab to catch our flight out that day evening from Kochi airport.

Rain Forest resort Athirappilly

Dining @ Rain Forest resort

Swimming @ Rain Forest resort

Overall a very memorable trip. It gave us a taste of why Kerala is such a great affordable destination for a vacation. All the people we interacted with were genuinely friendly and great hosts. Nature wise we enjoyed our stay at Kumarokom where we did some good birding. House boat ride also went by many good spots, some with huge number of water birds. Unfortunately they were too far and we couldn't stop to observe and photograph properly. Our home stay at Fort Kochi had such a good garden that it even hosted resident peacocks among others. On our highway walk in Athirappilly we were very lucky to spot both the Malabar Pied Hornbill and Malabar Grey Hornbill foraging on the same tree.

Charpa Waterfalls

Ebird Checklists (along with bird images):

Kumarakom Evening

Kumarakom Morning

Walk to Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary

Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary Watch Tower

Kumarakom Morning Day 2

Kumarakom to Muhamma Ferry

Alappuzha (Alleppey) Backwaters in local boat

Alappuzha Night stay point in house boat

Fort Kochi Mothers Inn Homestay

Image album links:

Full trip photo journey

Athirapally Stay

Tanzania. The never ending grasslands

Africa is the ultimate destination for anyone interested in Nature in its purest form. We had never looked to plan one as the whole process felt daunting. But when two of our close relatives suggested an Africa trip around the same time which worked for us also, it all fell into place for one of our wildest and most adventurous trips.

We finished planning our logistics in a flurry within a few weeks about 5 to 6 months before our agreed-upon vacation dates. After some back and forth we settled on  Easy travels on recommendation from friends who had used their services. It was a good choice as they were very professional and patient in helping us customize the trip to our satisfaction. Finally, it was 6 days of safari mostly in Serengeti, and 1 final day on the beaches in Zanzibar.

Tanzania, the safaris, people, food, grasslands, and nature were all as wonderful as advertised. Our group was 11 people from 9 to 56 yrs. Serengeti, on which we roamed for 3 full days exemplified our expectations of African nature. The other 2 major parks Tarangire with its Boabab trees, and Ngorongoro crater with its unique isolated wildlife were the perfect complements and bookmarked Serengeti. We did a good balance of cottages (Sopa lodge), safari tents (Tortillis, Sametu), luxury stays (Farmhouse), and a final beach resort(Zanziblue) to experience the wide range of stay options. 

From day 1, we learned to expect the unexpected on a Safari. It could be any of the Ungulates like Zebra, Giraffe, or Antelopes which are grazing peacefully or crossing our path but also the famed carnivores like Cheetah, Leopard, or a resting Lion pride of which there were many. The habitat and views ranged from shrub forests to rivers, to the wide expansive grasslands. One of the days was earmarked to witness the great migration of Wildebeests which were on the move. After driving for several hours, our guides found them. We watched enthralled as the huge herds of thousands of Wildebeests moved steadily to their northern grazing fields.

On our final day in Arusha, we chose to have a quieter day with a local plantation visit and enjoyed some locally prepared food. Zanzibar with its beautiful beaches provided the perfect ending to our African adventure as we reluctantly bid goodbye and headed back. 

Images from the trip:

Day 1: Tarangire

Day 2,3,4: Serengeti

Day 5: Ngorongoro

People shots: Tanzania and Zanzibar

Huthridurga Trek : When wet and misty

 

Location: Huthridurga

Date: Dec 10th, 2022

To get there: From Bangalore, go on Tumkur Road, and take the left to Hassan/Mangalore at Nelamangala. Take a deviation towards Hutridurga before you reach Kunigal.

Distance: Apprx 80km. 

Trail type: We were able to do only about a kilometer to the abandoned temple. This part had manually cut steps on the rock with railings for the most part. Rest was easy to walk trails with man-made or organized steps. The final part was a bit steep but still fairly easy.

Facilities: There is a temple with plenty of paid parking hosted by the family staying there. We paid 50rs for our car. Small shops in the village nearby.

Map: Trek Start point 

This was one of those constantly talked about but always postponed plans with our Saturday basketball group. Finally, only 4 of us managed to shake off scheduling conflicts and ignore weather predictions (rainy!) and gathered at my house near Thalagattapura around 7am. We carpooled and started off promptly under misty, cloudy, and intermittent drizzle, with rain gear and snacks!

The drive was comfortable on mostly NH roads except for the last 10 or so kilometers. The trek start point is just past a village temple which also provides ample parking space. The family there maintains that and charges a nominal fee to leave your car. Since it was already close to 9am we chose to eat up some of the food we had bought then itself before heading out. I chose to leave my camera behind because of the weather and the threat of heavy rains later. Therefore, our photo shoots had to be with the mid to high-end cell cameras that all of us carried.

So, it was in uncomfortable ponchos and bulky rain jackets that we started up the paved path toward the hills of Hutridurga. However, the ethereal look of the hills shrouded in mist and clouds at the top, wet paths, and washed clean nature more than compensated for the dreary weather. We trudged up the sloping rocks with cut steps with a lot of expectations and energy. Bird watching was minimal with most IDs by calls and little visual activity by Sunbirds, Munias. 

The views were spectacular as we progressed at a very leisurely pace.  Even at 10am, we were the only ones trekking up, understandable as ours was the first car parked and the weather was still poor. It made the trek experience that much more special and personal with invariable photo shoots every 10 steps or so!

After about a kilometer, we reached an abandoned temple structure to the right of the path perched on the edge of the hill. It had a small Kalyani with water. We chose to stop here and go through the rest of our snacks. The place was isolated at that time with spectacular views all around. We stayed there for almost 30 mins, just munching on food, chatting, and catching up with nostalgic, often hilarious stories mostly from our school and college days.

As the weather still did not clear and the higher reaches of the hills remained shrouded in clouds/mist, we decided to climb down and head back. This time we encountered several parties making their way up including a large trek group. Better late than never, I guess. 

We were back at the trailhead by 11am and enjoyed a "productive" photo shoot with the weather clearing a bit and the trail and hills giving us wonderful clean backgrounds. Shortly thereafter, we were back in the car and planning a much-deserved (or not!) lunch self-treat!

As always, when on a trek anywhere, take only memories and photos and leave behind only your footprints. Avoid disposing of all kinds of trash.

Click here for more images.

Ebird Checklist

Return to Hutridurga on 21st Jan 2023

I returned to Hutridurga with a larger group and better weather. This time we reached around 9am after stopping for breakfast at Paakshala@solur on the Mangalore highway. As the weather was good and it was a saturday, we found out just how popular this trek was. Parking was almost full with more cars parked outside the village. The climb until the Temple point was still good though not as scenic. We stopped for 10 mins at this place to rest and continued along the path for another half kilometer or so where we came upon a nice flat area of the peak, which turned out to be an excellent spot for picnic and views. We relaxed here for almost 30 mins with various photo shoot attempts before heading back. Reached the parking place before 12 noon and headed back to Bangalore.

Birding was very poor because of the time of day and lack of focus. However we were lucky to spot the vulnerable Yellow-throated Bulbul and a pair of Egyptian vultures.

Click here for more images.

Ebird Checklist