Kurinjal Peak: A peak over the Sahyadri mountain range

 

Kurinjal Peak, Kudremukh

Location: Bhagwati Nature Camp, Jungle Lodges

Date: Oct 2nd, 2024

To get there: From Bangalore via Hassan or Sakleshpur on the Mangalore Highway. Buses are also connected. Resort does not have phone connectivity so you have to plan the last mile connectivity before hand.

Distance: Apprx 350km, 7hrs by car.

Kurinjal Peak Trail type: Initially flat, then moist rain forests, opens into shola grasslands for a bit. Final ascent is on a rocky trail which needs some scrambling. 7km from trailhead to peak.

Facilities: None. Carry all the food and water you need. Permission to trek is mandatory from the Karnataka Forest department. Pass has to be picked up from the checkpost morning of your trek. Guide is compulsory and provided by KFD.

Map: Kurinjal Peak. Trail head is from the Kalasa main road. Detailed trail infromation from Indiahikes.

Kudremukh (Malleshwara Mining Town for me), influenced my formative years the most making me who I am today. My father worked at Canadian Met-Chem, consulting for KIOCL to set up the infrastructure for mining Iron ore. Our family relocated for 2 of those years and I did my 6th and 7th standard at Giri Jyoti Convent there. It was always my desire to go back and see the town where I first learned to converse in English, appreciate nature, aped the kids in Enid Blyton in the forests around us, had a diverse set of friends ranging from smart city kids to tribal kids, and just grew up into the awkward teens!

River at Bhagwati

So it was, 45 years after those carefree days, my wife and I booked to stay at Bhagwati Nature Camp, Jungle Lodges. It is about 8 km from Malleshwara which we were told had become a ghost town. We drove past it to reach the camp, a typical Jungle Lodges setup with cottages and tents surrounded by Kudremukh National Park and a river flowing by it.

We had not really planned any activities other than exploring the abandoned town. But when the other guests, a young couple and four engineering students, started planning a trek to Kurinjal Peak, we joined enthusiastically. It checked off a long-standing box for us to trek in the Western Ghats shola forests, after several treks overseas and in the Himalayas. They helpfully took care of getting the trek permit from Karnataka Forest Department that required a drive to the checkpoint early on the morning of the trek.

Shola Grasslands

Kurinjal Peak Trailhead

The trek is 7km each way with some elevation gain and usually takes about 5 hrs. to complete. Our assigned guide Kumar was ready to start around 7am which is ideal as it was predicted to get hot and humid later with chances of heavy rain with lightning by late afternoon. Crazy change of weather from cold to hot/humid to monsoon. However, we decided to have breakfast before the trek which pushed our start to nearly 10am. It meant we would be under a time constraint and could not go slow or rest in between or on the peak to avoid getting caught in dangerous weather conditions. Of course, the abundance of leeches in the rainforests ensured we were not tardy anywhere! 

Bridge at start

We parked our vehicles at the Bhagwati Nature Camp turnoff on the main road and walked a few hundred meters to the Kurunjal Peak trailhead. After crossing a bridge across a scenic river, the trail winds through rainforests and shola grasslands. Birds were scarce but butterflies were plenty. I enjoyed and captured their images for later identification as best as I could, despite the fast pace we were maintaining.

Rain forests

As soon as we entered the moist forest trails of Sahyadris, we were greeted by leeches lying in wait for us on the ground, plants that we brushed, and one even dropped down from a tree, a la Mission Impossible style! Everyone was helping everyone else to flick the creepy crawlies which do a very quick downward dog asana climbing technique, to find a nice succulent spot to latch on and suck blood. They anesthetize the spot so that we won't even feel the bite until they drop off, belly full of our precious blood and the wound starts bleeding heavily because they also inject something to prevent clotting! Like they were vampire insects. By the end, we had all contributed to their meal for the day in spite of the precautions we took. 

View point 1km before peak

Good place to relax

After about 6kms which took 2 hours, we reached a lovely viewpoint. Here we could see the majestic Sahyadri range with its rolling shola forests covered in low clouds. Finally, had a breather, and took some nice photos, before we started the final ascent to the peak towering about 200-300 meters above us. Here we had the option of scrambling up a narrow trail or walking on a road that led to an abandoned house midway. 

Go pro leading the way up

Final ascent

A quick rest at the house and the final ascent to reach the peak with its magnificent 360-degree views. I found myself more tired than usual for a moderate climb. Maybe it was age catching up or the fast pace without breaks or just one of those days. I also felt quite nauseous and nearly threw up. This was because of eating the excellent but oily Mangalore Buns for breakfast. Lesson learned. Avoid oily food before any serious treks.

Kurinjal Peak conquerors

Tailed Jay

Some rest. Obligatory photos. Phone calls as this was the only spot where we got a signal. Group shot. And down we started to avoid getting caught in the lightning, rain, or mist. Guide chose a shorter route but steeper descent which supposedly was 2 km less but felt same for us. After an eventless trek down, with beautiful butterfly sightings, we were back in our camp for a well-deserved lunch and a relaxing afternoon nap. 

Kudremukh View point

Overall, Kurinjal Peak is a wonderful beginner trek, easy to moderate level of difficulty, that lets you enjoy the lovely Sahyadri mountains. We were quite disappointed with the lack of any avian activity but the views, butterflies, and wildflowers made up for it. Another activity offered at Bhagwati is a landscape Safari to the Kudremukh view point. It is worth doing as jeep ride and views are very fun and enjoyable.

Abandoned Apartments

Of course, I didn't miss out on visiting my childhood home in Kudremukh town, about 8kms from the camp. On our way back to Bangalore, we drove around it for a couple of hours visiting the Helipad, the apartments where we stayed, and my school Giri Jyoti Convent. All were still standing but dilapidated. They did jog my memory and I enjoyed the wave of nostalgia leading me to share some inane events from that time of my life with others who listened patiently and hopefully enjoyed too and did not get bored. The town did give us a sighting of the Malabar Barbet and Malabar Giant Squirrel, which was a bonus.

Click here for some more images from the trek and trip.

Singapore Malaysia, Badminton and Nature

 

It was my desire to watch an international badminton tournament live that made us travel to Singapore and allowed us to explore nature around there. I caught the quarter-finals and finals action at the BWF Singapore Open. Before this event, we took a peek at the wonderful nature parks in the Sarawak region of Borneo Island which is part of Malaysia and also visited the superb Sungei Buloh Wetland Preserve in Singapore in between.

Thanks to my nephew in Singapore who suggested Sarawak on Borneo Island knowing our interest in nature. Borneo is the 3rd largest island and has many diverse nature sanctuaries. We had a difficult time choosing which ones to visit. We finally settled on 1. Bako National Park (for the proboscis monkey) and 2. Kubah National Park. Both were close to Kuching where we planned to stay. We postponed planning the logistics after we reached there, a mistake as you can read below. 

For Day 1, we had hoped to visit Bako but found out late morning, that we needed to start early as the park entrance is accessible only by boat.  After some research, we decided to taxi to Matang Wildlife Center. We only realized it was a rescue center, not a sanctuary when we reached there. It was also closed in the afternoon because they let the captive Orangutans out. The person in charge was sympathetic and since we had driven up all the way let us in with warnings to keep away from some paths. Also, there was no bus or return taxi service, so we had to hold back our taxi. The best is to drive there in your own vehicle. We did get to see the captive Orangutans who were very comical in their enclosures and Rhinoceros Hornbills.

We took a cruise in the evening on the Sarawak River, which was fun with snacks, drinks, and cultural events. It was an out-and-back with great views of the sunset. The Kuching waterfront from where the cruise starts is quite a happening place with choices of local food, music, and good space to walk around. We had some wonderful street food like Satay before it started raining heavily. 

For Day 2, we visited the famed and highly recommended Borneo Cultures Museum and booked a night walk at Kubah National Park. The museum is well done with spaced-out exhibits that are innovatively designed in how the information is presented. For example, in the birds exhibit, you could press a button to hear the call of a bird as a silhouette of the same bird lights up on the wall close by. 

Kubah is famed for its frogs which are best seen on a night walk. We were lucky to have chosen a very nice and friendly guide, Lucien, for the night frog tour at Kubah which can only be done with a guide. He picked us up from our stay and gave us an incredible look into the nightlife of animals at Kubah. 

On Day 3, early morning, we caught the local bus which took us to the jetty from where one could charter a boat to take us to the entrance of Bako. The bus cost us just 1 Ringitt per person when a taxi could have cost us nearly 50! Bako did not disappoint as we sighted the Bearded Pig as soon as we entered. The funny but also grave and serious-looking Proboscis monkey welcomed us with plenty of posing before we had even checked in at the visitor center. They guide you on the trails depending on your interest, fitness, and time available. We did a long trek to a beach and a shorter boardwalk over a peat swamp habitat. Time is limited here as our return is fixed by the boat we hired to get us here. If you want to experience this park to the fullest, they offer overnight accommodations too.

In Singapore, we went to Sungei Buloh National Park with our hosts. It is one of the best natural preserves I have ever visited within a large city limits. Wonderfully designed with huts that look out on

the water and swampy areas, almost like a hide. We had a good time walking around and spotting birds and the ubiquitous monitor lizard seen all over the park. We also got lucky to spot a couple of Otters that were frolicking in the lake. We hope to visit again during the migratory season for better spotting.

Overall, we had a wonderful time exploring nature in Southeast Asia that rivaled any we have seen. All the parks were well-maintained and rich in biodiversity. 

Images from the trip

Malaysia

Singapore

Frogs and more at Kubah National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia.

A look into the rainforests and home of its King

Kalinga Center for Research and Ecology

https://kalingacre.com/

Since our friends had given high praise on their visits to the center, it was on top of our list when a short vacation opportunity arose. Many excuses made us put it off like the long drive, leeches, monsoon, etc. One fine day it just clicked and we were on our way for a 2 night stay. Later, we were left wondering why we had postponed this trip for such a long time!

It is indeed a long drive from Bangalore about 7 to 8 hrs. There were no leeches or monsoon in March but rains are always fun here. We drove leisurely planning to reach KCRE for lunch. But a stop at Kuvempu Kavi Mane in Kuppali, a lovely tribute and museum dedicated to the poet, took a couple of hours. So, we had lunch at Theerthahalli and reached KCRE late around 4pm.

We fell in love with the place, as soon as we reached the welcome arch amid thick rainforest and walked down the steps to their dining/lounge area. It's like you are in the middle of the western ghats with views of trees all around you wherever you are. Lovely ambiance if you like nature in its purest form.

As soon as we settled in, there was a call to rescue a King Cobra, ie Kalinga!, at a nearby village. To our surprise, the whole team started getting ready in perfect synchronization. We were invited to join if we were interested. Of course, we were! As we drove out, a call updated us that the snake had gone up a tree, so rescuing it at night would be difficult. We chose to wait for future updates in a lovely hilly area with great views. Finally, any possibility of a nighttime rescue was called off and we drove back to the center in the dark with some unexpected but thrilling encounter with wild Gaurs that crossed our road.

After dinner, one of the interns took us for a night walk. There was hope of spotting some snakes or nocturnal animals. But we were unlucky. However, walking in torchlight in the forest even on the broad path was exciting. We switched off the torch a few times to experience what it feels like if you were an animal in the forest. We spotted a nightjar, several spiders, insects, and moths.

Mornings are our time to just bird around wherever we stay. At KCRE, we didn't have to go far as we were already in the middle of a great birding spot. So, we just ambled around the place and enjoyed relaxed birding. Yellow-browed bulbul, Crimson-backed sunbird, Black-naped monarch, and Black woodpecker, were some of the beauties we spotted. Later a student researcher working on Malabar Pit Vipers took us on a short walk and gave us sightings of the beautiful snake. It is so well camouflaged that it took us several minutes to spot even with him telling us exactly where it was resting about 10-20ft away!

Can you spot the snake?

For an afternoon activity, there was a natural pool nearby. We followed another student intern who volunteered to take us there. It was a serene and peaceful spot in the middle of the rainforest. My wife who loves water immediately waded in while I walked around hunting for frogs, butterflies, odonates, and anything interesting. Our guide, settled down with her laptop to get some work done.

We had hardly spent about 30 minutes when her partner came running up to our spot from the center (about 1km away), yelled out that a rescue call had come, and promptly ran back. Of course, we wanted to be part of it too! So, we headed back at top speed and found that everyone had left already except for the intern who had selflessly informed us. We were instructed to head out as soon as possible. And we did with some adventurous driving, and many calls in between to the lead group to guide us on the rural roads, we managed to catch up just as they were about to enter the small village. whew!

All the running, driving, and hullabaloo to join the rescue was worth it as we watched enthralled Dr. Gowrishankar execute a perfect King Cobra rescue in difficult circumstances. The large adult snake had found some cozy accommodation in the external bath area which also doubled as a storage for this home. Gowri had to coax the snake out of that space and get it into the open area along a narrow corridor. After that risky maneuver, he guided the snake safely towards the prepared sack into which the 8 to 9-foot-long King Cobra happily slithered inside. The sack was then safely carried to the vehicle and released within hours at a suitable distance from the village into the forest where hopefully it will find a more natural home. Before heading out, Dr.

Gowrishankar spent some time with the villagers answering all their questions and allaying fears of the snake. Such debriefing and assurances ensure the villagers will reach out to KCRE whenever they encounter snakes rather than take dangerous risky solutions themselves.

Too soon our wonderful 2 day trip was over. We managed to do some morning birding before heading back to Bangalore. A wonderful trip that we hope to repeat sometime soon or as often as possible!

Selected images from our KCRE adventure.

Tanzania. The never ending grasslands

Africa is the ultimate destination for anyone interested in Nature in its purest form. We had never looked to plan one as the whole process felt daunting. But when two of our close relatives suggested an Africa trip around the same time which worked for us also, it all fell into place for one of our wildest and most adventurous trips.

We finished planning our logistics in a flurry within a few weeks about 5 to 6 months before our agreed-upon vacation dates. After some back and forth we settled on  Easy travels on recommendation from friends who had used their services. It was a good choice as they were very professional and patient in helping us customize the trip to our satisfaction. Finally, it was 6 days of safari mostly in Serengeti, and 1 final day on the beaches in Zanzibar.

Tanzania, the safaris, people, food, grasslands, and nature were all as wonderful as advertised. Our group was 11 people from 9 to 56 yrs. Serengeti, on which we roamed for 3 full days exemplified our expectations of African nature. The other 2 major parks Tarangire with its Boabab trees, and Ngorongoro crater with its unique isolated wildlife were the perfect complements and bookmarked Serengeti. We did a good balance of cottages (Sopa lodge), safari tents (Tortillis, Sametu), luxury stays (Farmhouse), and a final beach resort(Zanziblue) to experience the wide range of stay options. 

From day 1, we learned to expect the unexpected on a Safari. It could be any of the Ungulates like Zebra, Giraffe, or Antelopes which are grazing peacefully or crossing our path but also the famed carnivores like Cheetah, Leopard, or a resting Lion pride of which there were many. The habitat and views ranged from shrub forests to rivers, to the wide expansive grasslands. One of the days was earmarked to witness the great migration of Wildebeests which were on the move. After driving for several hours, our guides found them. We watched enthralled as the huge herds of thousands of Wildebeests moved steadily to their northern grazing fields.

On our final day in Arusha, we chose to have a quieter day with a local plantation visit and enjoyed some locally prepared food. Zanzibar with its beautiful beaches provided the perfect ending to our African adventure as we reluctantly bid goodbye and headed back. 

Images from the trip:

Day 1: Tarangire

Day 2,3,4: Serengeti

Day 5: Ngorongoro

People shots: Tanzania and Zanzibar

An unexpected moment with serpents

This incident occurred in April of 2020. Our layout at that time had about one third of houses built with the rest left as semi maintained plots. Since this was previously open land bordering wilderness, snakes were quite common. During that month in the midst of Covid lockdown, there was one fairly large Rat snake which had a routine of cutting across our backyard everyday evening. Those days any activity around our house was a welcome event and Rat snake crossing our yard was right up there with the best of them. That summer day in April, as soon as we heard the Mynas alarm calls, I knew our passage guest had arrived and starting tracking it while photographing its progress from a safe distance.

Rat Snake entering our backyard from one side cautiously.

It looked around the place for any dangers before continuing on its way to cross our yard.

By the time I scrambled from the bedroom window to our utility door side, it was almost out of our yard and I could just see its tail. I then went out to the front of the open plot to observe it progress.

I took these shots as it crossed our neighboring empty plot. My attention was solely on the Rat snake and somehow never noticed its friend? or cousin?s body barely visible under the hood at that time.

In my next shot, I still had not noticed the additional model in my photograph. Only when I was processing my images,  I could clearly see the Spectacled Cobra or the Indian Cobra under the Rat snake agitated enough to open its hood and be fully alert.

The Rat snake seemed oblivious to the presence of the Cobra or just ignored it? and went along its way. The Cobra just waited it out and continued with its activities. I have no idea where it went after that as I never saw it was there in the first place! Just another routine close encounter in the world of Nature, I suppose.

In the meantime, this cat also thought all this was entertaining and worth  investigating up close. I nearly found out if, Curiosity DOES indeed kill the cat!

Thankfully for this fella, the Rat snake just went on its way and I had no idea where the Cobra went afterwards or even if the cat was aware of the Cobra.

My last shot of the Rat Snake as it entered the backyard of the next house in its constant search for food, no doubt. All this activity took less than 10 mins.

Final note: Snakes for the most part stay away from Humans. Danger only occurs when humans encroach into their area like a burrow/dark areas under stones or if one steps on a resting snake in thick grass by mistake. If you encounter any in your area, please call an ethical snake rescuer(Ex. From PFA:People for animals) who will catch it with no injury to the reptile and minimal stress, then release it in a nearby forest area. Do not get amateur catchers with clipper-like instruments that will harm the spines or more and even cause death due to excessive stress.