A look into the rainforests and home of its King

Kalinga Center for Research and Ecology

https://kalingacre.com/

Since our friends had given high praise on their visits to the center, it was on top of our list when a short vacation opportunity arose. Many excuses made us put it off like the long drive, leeches, monsoon, etc. One fine day it just clicked and we were on our way for a 2 night stay. Later, we were left wondering why we had postponed this trip for such a long time!

It is indeed a long drive from Bangalore about 7 to 8 hrs. There were no leeches or monsoon in March but rains are always fun here. We drove leisurely planning to reach KCRE for lunch. But a stop at Kuvempu Kavi Mane in Kuppali, a lovely tribute and museum dedicated to the poet, took a couple of hours. So, we had lunch at Theerthahalli and reached KCRE late around 4pm.

We fell in love with the place, as soon as we reached the welcome arch amid thick rainforest and walked down the steps to their dining/lounge area. It's like you are in the middle of the western ghats with views of trees all around you wherever you are. Lovely ambiance if you like nature in its purest form.

As soon as we settled in, there was a call to rescue a King Cobra, ie Kalinga!, at a nearby village. To our surprise, the whole team started getting ready in perfect synchronization. We were invited to join if we were interested. Of course, we were! As we drove out, a call updated us that the snake had gone up a tree, so rescuing it at night would be difficult. We chose to wait for future updates in a lovely hilly area with great views. Finally, any possibility of a nighttime rescue was called off and we drove back to the center in the dark with some unexpected but thrilling encounter with wild Gaurs that crossed our road.

After dinner, one of the interns took us for a night walk. There was hope of spotting some snakes or nocturnal animals. But we were unlucky. However, walking in torchlight in the forest even on the broad path was exciting. We switched off the torch a few times to experience what it feels like if you were an animal in the forest. We spotted a nightjar, several spiders, insects, and moths.

Mornings are our time to just bird around wherever we stay. At KCRE, we didn't have to go far as we were already in the middle of a great birding spot. So, we just ambled around the place and enjoyed relaxed birding. Yellow-browed bulbul, Crimson-backed sunbird, Black-naped monarch, and Black woodpecker, were some of the beauties we spotted. Later a student researcher working on Malabar Pit Vipers took us on a short walk and gave us sightings of the beautiful snake. It is so well camouflaged that it took us several minutes to spot even with him telling us exactly where it was resting about 10-20ft away!

Can you spot the snake?

For an afternoon activity, there was a natural pool nearby. We followed another student intern who volunteered to take us there. It was a serene and peaceful spot in the middle of the rainforest. My wife who loves water immediately waded in while I walked around hunting for frogs, butterflies, odonates, and anything interesting. Our guide, settled down with her laptop to get some work done.

We had hardly spent about 30 minutes when her partner came running up to our spot from the center (about 1km away), yelled out that a rescue call had come, and promptly ran back. Of course, we wanted to be part of it too! So, we headed back at top speed and found that everyone had left already except for the intern who had selflessly informed us. We were instructed to head out as soon as possible. And we did with some adventurous driving, and many calls in between to the lead group to guide us on the rural roads, we managed to catch up just as they were about to enter the small village. whew!

All the running, driving, and hullabaloo to join the rescue was worth it as we watched enthralled Dr. Gowrishankar execute a perfect King Cobra rescue in difficult circumstances. The large adult snake had found some cozy accommodation in the external bath area which also doubled as a storage for this home. Gowri had to coax the snake out of that space and get it into the open area along a narrow corridor. After that risky maneuver, he guided the snake safely towards the prepared sack into which the 8 to 9-foot-long King Cobra happily slithered inside. The sack was then safely carried to the vehicle and released within hours at a suitable distance from the village into the forest where hopefully it will find a more natural home. Before heading out, Dr.

Gowrishankar spent some time with the villagers answering all their questions and allaying fears of the snake. Such debriefing and assurances ensure the villagers will reach out to KCRE whenever they encounter snakes rather than take dangerous risky solutions themselves.

Too soon our wonderful 2 day trip was over. We managed to do some morning birding before heading back to Bangalore. A wonderful trip that we hope to repeat sometime soon or as often as possible!

Selected images from our KCRE adventure.

Challenging climb for the views

Structure at the top

Location: Skandagiri Peak, Chikkaballapura
To get there: From Bangalore towards Hyderabad past the airport
Distance: Apprx 60km. 
Trail type: Easy hard mud, Rocky with some boulders.
Facilities: Toilets, Forest guards
Map: Skandagiri Peak Start point 

Date: Sep 19th, 2022

We planned this trek as preparation for our Sandakphu trek in the Himalayas. It fitted the requirement as it was moderate, close by, and required some climbing and effort testing our fitness levels. The trek can be done only by booking with the Karnataka Eco Tourism who will give permission to take the trail as well as provide a guide to the top.

Facilities at the start point

On the trail

Our group of 12 across 4 families, met at the parking place, Papagni Mutt where there is ample organized parking place. However, it was quite full on the day we went, so better to get there early. From there, it's about 200 or so meters to the trek starting point where there are toilets and the guide will meet you.

Bouldering for fun!

The trek itself was fairly easy if you are reasonably fit and do not have any physical issues. Otherwise, you may find the ascent and the rocky trail in some parts a bit tough. With suitable rests and proper pacing, its still doable. We did stop at couple of places for refreshments and let the kids do some bouldering which they enjoyed. The views are speactacular as always and we can see Nandi Hills from the top. There is an old abandoned temple on a a large granite boulder with remnants of a fort like compound all around. We rested and picniced there. Our birding was quite limited on the trek and the only highlight is we spotted Blue Rock Thrush at the top.

Descent was quick and we all enoyed a well deserved and  rejuvenating tender coconut at the bottom.

As always when on this trail, leave only your footmarks and take only photographs,

Some images that were taken on the trek  (and the ones inserted into this blog (c) Prasanna)

Ebird checklist of the trek.

Bidarakatte : A Scenic Trek

Location: Bidarakatte, Next to Savandurga, Near Bangalore
Date:  Oct 11th, 2020

To get there: [Click here for Google Map].  Take Mysore road towards Ramanagaram. Take a right from Ramanagara bus station and head straight for around 40 minutes. Take a right under the arch saying - Kempegowda Vanadhama Savanadurga to reach the Ramanagar division forest department in about 5 minutes. Check Forest Dept directions also for any updated information and also for booking (250 Rs/person) the trek as only guided treks are allowed here. There is another shorter route through Manchinbele, which we took on our way back.

Distance: About 50 to 60km from Jayanagar, Bangalore

Trekkers on the trail

Trail type:  Around 3 to 4 km one way if you take the longer scenic path that our guide chose on the way to the destination point. Less than 2 km with a short cut which we took on the way back. About 80% of the trail is walking on rocky mountains or monoliths. For an experienced and well-balanced trekker, this will be a breeze. But for those of us on the wrong side of the age curve or with some balance fears, this trek will feel very adventurous even though danger is minimal. Regardless, one has to be a bit careful where the slope becomes steep. In a few places, it is easier to slide down on our butts unglamorously than walk down in style. I chose the former! Note that it can get quite treacherous with rain or even a drizzle. Rubber-soled shoes with a good grip are ideal footwear.

Facilities: Ramnagar is a big town to stock up on any essentials if you are leaving Bangalore too early. A lot of village shops can be found on the way. Trailhead has a Forest Dept office with parking, drinking water, and basic toilet facilities. Warning: Toilet is usable but not clean.

It had been a while since we had gone on any group family trek close by. When a close friend suggested this half-day trek to get relief from the covid mandated incarceration, that drought finally came to an end. Bidarakatte is one of a set of eco trails that the Karnataka Forest Dept is managing and would be a first for us. Only small groups with guides are allowed on the trail with pre-booking. Our group of 6 was to start at 7.30 am. 

Up early, too early, on the trek day, with packed breakfast, we managed to pile into their XUV, delayed by only 15 mins from the 5.30am departure time. Taking some short cut village roads on a very cloudy day with the threat of rain, we reached the destination pretty much on time. We found the guide ready along with 3 others who would make up the full party of 10 now.

Waterfall

Endpoint of Savandurga Trek

Masks on initially, we headed down an easy path to what appeared to be a man-made lake. Scenic with the Savandurga Monolithic rock face towering over it. We didn't linger long and doubled back to head out on the actual trail along the foothills of the rock face. Calls of Sunbirds, White-browed Bulbul, Coucal could be heard but any movement was absent. No doubt, the birds were smarter to stay warm wherever they were instead of flying around in the dreary weather like us, humans. We did spot the tail of what looked like a Malkoha but the bird itself was too well hidden among the leaves to make a positive ID. 

Soon we came out onto massive rocky outcrops, with lots of small pools of water and cacti. Add in lush forest greenery in the ravines and the tall Sanvandurga monolith backdrop, the views were spectacular. Any angle was a keeper for a landscape photographer. Walking on the rocks is easy as long as you are careful and take it slow. We had to pass through remnants of a fort which was quite exciting and aesthetically very beautiful. As we walked along the broad ridges, we could see the valley below with several villages. 

Temple at endpoint

Indian Grey Mangoose

We reached the old abandoned temple in around 2 to 3 hours, stopping only for views and photos. The temple area overlooks a heavily forested ravine and some fort ramparts. Lots of great places to sit and enjoy a picnic breakfast while getting stunning views any which way you turn. Bird watching was a little more fruitful here with Blue Rock Thrush, Rufous Treepie, Egyptian vulture, Peregrine Falcon, and a nice flyby of a Tawny Eagle. A pair of Indian Grey Mangoose, scuttled along the edges giving curious glances at us.

Blue Rock Thrush

After spending a relaxed hour here, eating, birdwatching, exploring, or just lying back and staring at the skies, we headed back with rain, thankfully, still playing truant. As our guide chose a shorter route, we were back at the parking lot within an hour.

Overall, it is a great hike, close to the city with clean thick, and healthy forests. Add in the stunning views of rocks, pools, and fort ramparts, it is truly a gem. I sincerely hope the Karnataka Forest Dept maintains it the same way forever and with only guided treks.

As always, if you do choose to experience this trek, take only photos and leave only your footprints. I mean don't litter or damage the pristine environment.

Tawny Eagle

Some more photos are here.

Ebird Checklist for the avian curious.  As noted before we did miss a Malkoha and I think one other raptor and probably a few others whose calls we heard but could not ID.