Showing posts with label bird watching. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bird watching. Show all posts

Kurinjal Peak: A peak over the Sahyadri mountain range

 

Kurinjal Peak, Kudremukh

Date: Oct 2nd, 2024
To get there: From Bangalore via Hassan or Sakleshpur on the Mangalore Highway. Buses are also connected. Resort does not have phone connectivity so you have to plan the last mile connectivity before hand.
Distance: Apprx 350km, 7hrs by car.
Kurinjal Peak Trail type: Initially flat, then moist rain forests, opens into shola grasslands for a bit. Final ascent is on a rocky trail which needs some scrambling. 7km from trailhead to peak.
Facilities: None. Carry all the food and water you need. Permission to trek is mandatory from the Karnataka Forest department. Pass has to be picked up from the checkpost morning of your trek. Guide is compulsory and provided by KFD.
Map: Kurinjal Peak. Trail head is from the Kalasa main road. Detailed trail infromation from Indiahikes.

Kudremukh (Malleshwara Mining Town for me), influenced my formative years the most making me who I am today. My father worked at Canadian Met-Chem, consulting for KIOCL to set up the infrastructure for mining Iron ore. Our family relocated for 2 of those years and I did my 6th and 7th standard at Giri Jyoti Convent there. It was always my desire to go back and see the town where I first learned to converse in English, appreciate nature, aped the kids in Enid Blyton in the forests around us, had a diverse set of friends ranging from smart city kids to tribal kids, and just grew up into the awkward teens!

River at Bhagwati

So it was, 45 years after those carefree days, my wife and I booked to stay at Bhagwati Nature Camp, Jungle Lodges. It is about 8 km from Malleshwara which we were told had become a ghost town. We drove past it to reach the camp, a typical Jungle Lodges setup with cottages and tents surrounded by Kudremukh National Park and a river flowing by it.

We had not really planned any activities other than exploring the abandoned town. But when the other guests, a young couple and four engineering students, started planning a trek to Kurinjal Peak, we joined enthusiastically. It checked off a long-standing box for us to trek in the Western Ghats shola forests, after several treks overseas and in the Himalayas. They helpfully took care of getting the trek permit from Karnataka Forest Department that required a drive to the checkpoint early on the morning of the trek.


Shola Grasslands

Kurinjal Peak Trailhead
The trek is 7km each way with some elevation gain and usually takes about 5 hrs. to complete. Our assigned guide Kumar was ready to start around 7am which is ideal as it was predicted to get hot and humid later with chances of heavy rain with lightning by late afternoon. Crazy change of weather from cold to hot/humid to monsoon. However, we decided to have breakfast before the trek which pushed our start to nearly 10am. It meant we would be under a time constraint and could not go slow or rest in between or on the peak to avoid getting caught in dangerous weather conditions. Of course, the abundance of leeches in the rainforests ensured we were not tardy anywhere! 
Bridge at start

We parked our vehicles at the Bhagwati Nature Camp turnoff on the main road and walked a few hundred meters to the Kurunjal Peak trailhead. After crossing a bridge across a scenic river, the trail winds through rainforests and shola grasslands. Birds were scarce but butterflies were plenty. I enjoyed and captured their images for later identification as best as I could, despite the fast pace we were maintaining.

Rain forests

As soon as we entered the moist forest trails of Sahyadris, we were greeted by leeches lying in wait for us on the ground, plants that we brushed, and one even dropped down from a tree, a la Mission Impossible style! Everyone was helping everyone else to flick the creepy crawlies which do a very quick downward dog asana climbing technique, to find a nice succulent spot to latch on and suck blood. They anesthetize the spot so that we won't even feel the bite until they drop off, belly full of our precious blood and the wound starts bleeding heavily because they also inject something to prevent clotting! Like they were vampire insects. By the end, we had all contributed to their meal for the day in spite of the precautions we took. 

View point 1km before peak

Good place to relax

After about 6kms which took 2 hours, we reached a lovely viewpoint. Here we could see the majestic Sahyadri range with its rolling shola forests covered in low clouds. Finally, had a breather, and took some nice photos, before we started the final ascent to the peak towering about 200-300 meters above us. Here we had the option of scrambling up a narrow trail or walking on a road that led to an abandoned house midway. 

Go pro leading the way up

Final ascent

A quick rest at the house and the final ascent to reach the peak with its magnificent 360-degree views. I found myself more tired than usual for a moderate climb. Maybe it was age catching up or the fast pace without breaks or just one of those days. I also felt quite nauseous and nearly threw up. This was because of eating the excellent but oily Mangalore Buns for breakfast. Lesson learned. Avoid oily food before any serious treks.

Kurinjal Peak conquerors

Tailed Jay
Some rest. Obligatory photos. Phone calls as this was the only spot where we got a signal. Group shot. And down we started to avoid getting caught in the lightning, rain, or mist. Guide chose a shorter route but steeper descent which supposedly was 2 km less but felt same for us. After an eventless trek down, with beautiful butterfly sightings, we were back in our camp for a well-deserved lunch and a relaxing afternoon nap. 


Kudremukh View point

Overall, Kurinjal Peak is a wonderful beginner trek, easy to moderate level of difficulty, that lets you enjoy the lovely Sahyadri mountains. We were quite disappointed with the lack of any avian activity but the views, butterflies, and wildflowers made up for it. Another activity offered at Bhagwati is a landscape Safari to the Kudremukh view point. It is worth doing as jeep ride and views are very fun and enjoyable.

Abandoned Apartments

Of course, I didn't miss out on visiting my childhood home in Kudremukh town, about 8kms from the camp. On our way back to Bangalore, we drove around it for a couple of hours visiting the Helipad, the apartments where we stayed, and my school Giri Jyoti Convent. All were still standing but dilapidated. They did jog my memory and I enjoyed the wave of nostalgia leading me to share some inane events from that time of my life with others who listened patiently and hopefully enjoyed too and did not get bored. The town did give us a sighting of the Malabar Barbet and Malabar Giant Squirrel, which was a bonus.

Click here for some more images from the trek and trip.


Singapore Malaysia, Badminton and Nature

 

It was my desire to watch an international badminton tournament live that made us travel to Singapore and allowed us to explore nature around there. I caught the quarter-finals and finals action at the BWF Singapore Open. Before this event, we took a peek at the wonderful nature parks in the Sarawak region of Borneo Island which is part of Malaysia and also visited the superb Sungei Buloh Wetland Preserve in Singapore in between.

Thanks to my nephew in Singapore who suggested Sarawak on Borneo Island knowing our interest in nature. Borneo is the 3rd largest island and has many diverse nature sanctuaries. We had a difficult time choosing which ones to visit. We finally settled on 1. Bako National Park (for the proboscis monkey) and 2. Kubah National Park. Both were close to Kuching where we planned to stay. We postponed planning the logistics after we reached there, a mistake as you can read below. 

For Day 1, we had hoped to visit Bako but found out late morning, that we needed to start early as the park entrance is accessible only by boat.  After some research, we decided to taxi to Matang Wildlife Center. We only realized it was a rescue center, not a sanctuary when we reached there. It was also closed in the afternoon because they let the captive Orangutans out. The person in charge was sympathetic and since we had driven up all the way let us in with warnings to keep away from some paths. Also, there was no bus or return taxi service, so we had to hold back our taxi. The best is to drive there in your own vehicle. We did get to see the captive Orangutans who were very comical in their enclosures and Rhinoceros Hornbills.


We took a cruise in the evening on the Sarawak River, which was fun with snacks, drinks, and cultural events. It was an out-and-back with great views of the sunset. The Kuching waterfront from where the cruise starts is quite a happening place with choices of local food, music, and good space to walk around. We had some wonderful street food like Satay before it started raining heavily. 

For Day 2, we visited the famed and highly recommended Borneo Cultures Museum and booked a night walk at Kubah National Park. The museum is well done with spaced-out exhibits that are innovatively designed in how the information is presented. For example, in the birds exhibit, you could press a button to hear the call of a bird as a silhouette of the same bird lights up on the wall close by. 

Kubah is famed for its frogs which are best seen on a night walk. We were lucky to have chosen a very nice and friendly guide, Lucien, for the night frog tour at Kubah which can only be done with a guide. He picked us up from our stay and gave us an incredible look into the nightlife of animals at Kubah. 

On Day 3, early morning, we caught the local bus which took us to the jetty from where one could charter a boat to take us to the entrance of Bako. The bus cost us just 1 Ringitt per person when a taxi could have cost us nearly 50! Bako did not disappoint as we sighted the Bearded Pig as soon as we entered. The funny but also grave and serious-looking Proboscis monkey welcomed us with plenty of posing before we had even checked in at the visitor center. They guide you on the trails depending on your interest, fitness, and time available. We did a long trek to a beach and a shorter boardwalk over a peat swamp habitat. Time is limited here as our return is fixed by the boat we hired to get us here. If you want to experience this park to the fullest, they offer overnight accommodations too.

In Singapore, we went to Sungei Buloh National Park with our hosts. It is one of the best natural preserves I have ever visited within a large city limits. Wonderfully designed with huts that look out on


the water and swampy areas, almost like a hide. We had a good time walking around and spotting birds and the ubiquitous monitor lizard seen all over the park. We also got lucky to spot a couple of Otters that were frolicking in the lake. We hope to visit again during the migratory season for better spotting.

Overall, we had a wonderful time exploring nature in Southeast Asia that rivaled any we have seen. All the parks were well-maintained and rich in biodiversity. 

Images from the trip

Malaysia

Singapore

Frogs and more at Kubah National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia.


A look into the rainforests and home of its King

Kalinga Center for Research and Ecology

https://kalingacre.com/

Since our friends had given high praise on their visits to the center, it was on top of our list when a short vacation opportunity arose. Many excuses made us put it off like the long drive, leeches, monsoon, etc. One fine day it just clicked and we were on our way for a 2 night stay. Later, we were left wondering why we had postponed this trip for such a long time!

It is indeed a long drive from Bangalore about 7 to 8 hrs. There were no leeches or monsoon in March but rains are always fun here. We drove leisurely planning to reach KCRE for lunch. But a stop at Kuvempu Kavi Mane in Kuppali, a lovely tribute and museum dedicated to the poet, took a couple of hours. So, we had lunch at Theerthahalli and reached KCRE late around 4pm.

We fell in love with the place, as soon as we reached the welcome arch amid thick rainforest and walked down the steps to their dining/lounge area. It's like you are in the middle of the western ghats with views of trees all around you wherever you are. Lovely ambiance if you like nature in its purest form.

As soon as we settled in, there was a call to rescue a King Cobra, ie Kalinga!, at a nearby village. To our surprise, the whole team started getting ready in perfect synchronization. We were invited to join if we were interested. Of course, we were! As we drove out, a call updated us that the snake had gone up a tree, so rescuing it at night would be difficult. We chose to wait for future updates in a lovely hilly area with great views. Finally, any possibility of a nighttime rescue was called off and we drove back to the center in the dark with some unexpected but thrilling encounter with wild Gaurs that crossed our road.

After dinner, one of the interns took us for a night walk. There was hope of spotting some snakes or nocturnal animals. But we were unlucky. However, walking in torchlight in the forest even on the broad path was exciting. We switched off the torch a few times to experience what it feels like if you were an animal in the forest. We spotted a nightjar, several spiders, insects, and moths.

Mornings are our time to just bird around wherever we stay. At KCRE, we didn't have to go far as we were already in the middle of a great birding spot. So, we just ambled around the place and enjoyed relaxed birding. Yellow-browed bulbul, Crimson-backed sunbird, Black-naped monarch, and Black woodpecker, were some of the beauties we spotted. Later a student researcher working on Malabar Pit Vipers took us on a short walk and gave us sightings of the beautiful snake. It is so well camouflaged that it took us several minutes to spot even with him telling us exactly where it was resting about 10-20ft away!

Can you spot the snake?
Can you spot the snake?
For an afternoon activity, there was a natural pool nearby. We followed another student intern who volunteered to take us there. It was a serene and peaceful spot in the middle of the rainforest. My wife who loves water immediately waded in while I walked around hunting for frogs, butterflies, odonates, and anything interesting. Our guide, settled down with her laptop to get some work done.

We had hardly spent about 30 minutes when her partner came running up to our spot from the center (about 1km away), yelled out that a rescue call had come, and promptly ran back. Of course, we wanted to be part of it too! So, we headed back at top speed and found that everyone had left already except for the intern who had selflessly informed us. We were instructed to head out as soon as possible. And we did with some adventurous driving, and many calls in between to the lead group to guide us on the rural roads, we managed to catch up just as they were about to enter the small village. whew!

All the running, driving, and hullabaloo to join the rescue was worth it as we watched enthralled Dr. Gowrishankar execute a perfect King Cobra rescue in difficult circumstances. The large adult snake had found some cozy accommodation in the external bath area which also doubled as a storage for this home. Gowri had to coax the snake out of that space and get it into the open area along a narrow corridor. After that risky maneuver, he guided the snake safely towards the prepared sack into which the 8 to 9-foot-long King Cobra happily slithered inside. The sack was then safely carried to the vehicle and released within hours at a suitable distance from the village into the forest where hopefully it will find a more natural home. Before heading out, Dr.

Gowrishankar spent some time with the villagers answering all their questions and allaying fears of the snake. Such debriefing and assurances ensure the villagers will reach out to KCRE whenever they encounter snakes rather than take dangerous risky solutions themselves.

Too soon our wonderful 2 day trip was over. We managed to do some morning birding before heading back to Bangalore. A wonderful trip that we hope to repeat sometime soon or as often as possible!

Selected images from our KCRE adventure.




Just a look into Gods Own Country - Kerala

Local boat into Alleppey backwater community
Local boat into Alleppey backwater community

Our much-desired and always postponed, vacation in the famed Kerala backwaters happened only because a friend suggested staying together  at Rain Forest resort in Athirappilly since they were planning a family visit to that area. Just the trigger we needed! We added about 6 days of travel around Kerala before we joined them and that of course included a houseboat stay!

Kumarakom Backwaters - Backwater Breeze Homestay - 2 days
Alleppey - Riverinecruises Houseboat - 1 day
Fort Kochi - Mothers Inn Homestay - 2 days
Athilrappilly - Rain Forest Resort - 1 day

Kochi Airport Metro feeder  bus timings
Timings
Time, comfort, or convenience was not a factor for us which let us explore Kochi public transport fully. We landed at around 10am and had several hours to reach our homestay, Backwaters Breeze, Kumarakom for lunch. Coming out of Kochi airport, its metro feeder bus stop to Aluva, the north endpoint of Kochi Metro, is just a few hundred metres away. We boarded one after resting in a comfortable waiting area for about 15mins. The bus was clean and comfortable. From Aluva  to SN Junction, its last stop Metro took about an hour where we alighted. We took an Auto instead of walking to the nearest local Bus stop. When we told the driver our final destination, he advised us to take a bus to Vaikom first and then another to Kumarakom. Convinced, we boarded the next local with the local commuters on way to Vaikom which came almost immediately. It was a basic bus and crowded but clean. The bus stop at Vaikom was large and nice. However the bus to our destination was not there and didn't arrive for almost 30 mins! Many locals who were also waiting for the same bus gave us good company. Since this was exactly the type of experience we desired we were quite contented waiting along without getting anxious. :). It was a short ride from there and we took an auto (2 km) from final stop to our homestay. Overall it was easy and fun as long as you have the time and don't care much for comfort.
Metro feeder bus at Kochi Airport
Metro feeder bus at Kochi Airport
Kochi Metro
Kochi Metro
Inside Kochi Metro
Inside Kochi Metro
Vaikom Bus Stop
Vaikom Bus Stop
Bus from Vaikom to Kumarakom
Bus from Vaikom to Kumarakom 

The breakup for this leg for those interested in details (like me :) ).

Cost  Mode  From to destination
120  bus     kochi airport to aluva metro
120  metro aluva to SN Junction, thripunithara
50    auto   station to bus stop
66    bus    thripunithara to vaikom
46    bus    vaikom to kaipuzhamuttu 
80    auto   kaipuzhamuttu to backwaters breeze

Total: 482 Rupees (4hr30mins). 
Airport prepaid quoted 3300 Rupees (~2hrs)

Balcony view Backwaters Breeze Kumarakom
Balcony view Backwaters Breeze, Kumarakom
After our slow but fun commute, it was a nice lunch near the homestay with our first taste of Kerala fried fish with awesome views at their dabha like minimal partner restaurant. Homestay is simple and comfortable enough for us with some wonderful views from the long balcony. Here we did mostly birdwatching, eating, and relaxing. One of the days (9am to 4pm) we walked all the way to Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, about 3kms which was quite strenuous. Sanctuary itself was well-kept and wonderful to walk through but birds were scarce. We did enjoy encounters with Tortoises and Monitor lizards quite up close. We chose to take an ad-hoc boat, a bit of backwater experience, on the way back to drop us off near the road and then took an auto back to our homestay. Birdwatching around the homestay was quite fruitful. Highlight was 10s of Blue tailed Bee-eaters and 100s of Baya weavers foraging in the morning and evenings over the fields.

Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary Map
Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary Map

View from Homestay balcony
View from Homestay balcony

Lunch on Homestay balcony
Lunch on Homestay balcony

Lunch in adjoint partner restaurant
Lunch in adjoint partner restaurant

Sunset over backwaters from homestay
Sunset over backwaters from homestay

Our next activity was a night in House boat. We had booked for a 1 BR houseboat with TIK Holidays. Our host suggested public ferry run by Kerala State Water transport to cross Lake Vembanad to Muhamma first and then auto or bus. This was great advice as public ferry was like a tourist activity for just 10Rs with lovely views of the huge lake. There was autos available at Muhamma Jetty. We could take one to the closest bus stop and then a bus to Alleppey or directly by auto to our boathouse. We chose the latter as we didn't have time. It was a quick 45 min ride and soon we were checking out our comfortable houseboat.

Inside Ferry to Muhamma
Inside Ferry to Muhamma
Ferry doing U Turn at boarding point
Ferry doing U Turn at boarding point
Ferry timings
Ferry timings
Waiting area at Kumarakom boarding point
Waiting area at Kumarakom boarding point
Auto to Alleppey
Auto from Muhamma to Alleppey

The houseboat experience was exciting and fun as it was the first time for us. Our trip went something like this. 12noon check-in. We sailed out into the backwaters quickly and had freshly prepared lunch while docked alongside the channel. We continued to sail among 10s or even 100s of other boats deeper into the channels. Around 5pm, a local boatman came alongside and offered a ride in a small boat into the narrower channels where local people resided for 1000 Rs.(2 of us). We took the offer and felt it was well worth it as it gives a glimpse of the backwater community, ex we saw school children dropped back home in a boat! Docked for night and had dinner of freshly cooked tiger prawns that were purchased by us at a shop along the way. Morning breakfast and returned to starting point by 10am.


Lunch on houseboat
Lunch on houseboat
Fresh catch from Backwater Fish shop
Fresh catch from Backwater Fish shop

Relaxing on houseboat
Relaxing on houseboat

Local boat into Backwater village
Local boat into Backwater village

Our next stop was Fort Kochi. We decided to stop for an hour to check out Marari beach which was along the way. Since the beach was a little bit inside from the bus route, we were advised to book an auto which would take us to the beach, wait an hour and then drop us back on the highway. This worked well. Beach itself is small with not much to do other than walk up and down. The bus ride to Fort Kochi was fun as it started raining. 

Bus to Fort Kochi
Bus to Fort Kochi

Soon, we reached our homestay, Mother's Inn and settled into their quaint little heritage house turned into a B&B. Evening, we walked to Vasco Da Gama Square, checked out the Chinese fishing nets and ate at Kashi Art Cafe. We capped off the night with a show on Kathakali. Next day, we took an auto to Mattancherry and roamed around the Jew town. It has the 500 year old Paradesi synagogue. Our lunch was at Ginger House which has a very scenic dining place overlooking the port. Return was by local bus and we took the obligatory Kerala oil massage near our homestay.  Finally it was onto our last stop in Athirappilly. 
Kathakali at Fort Kochi
Kathakali at Fort Kochi

Lunch at Ginger House, Mattancherry

Murals in Mattancherry
Murals in Mattancherry

Jew town Mattancherry
Jew town Mattancherry

Here we used the newly launched Kerala Water Metro to cross the bay to Ernakulam by taking a local ferry to Vypin just to try it out. It was worth it and done very nicely. From Ernakulam we took what was advertised as express bus to Chalakudy from where we could get another bus to Athirappilly. However we were late and the bus was definitely not express, stopping everywhere. So, we hopped off midway and booked a taxi to our resort. This ensured we just made it before lunch closed. Of course with more time we would have stayed on as the connecting local bus stops at the entrance of the resort itself.
Kochi Water Metro
Kochi Water Metro

Mothers Inn Homestay Fort Kochi
Mothers Inn Homestay Fort Kochi

Athirappilly resort is very well designed and located. We thoroughly enjoyed the visual treat that it provided every which way you look out from the resort. The following day, we took an auto to Vazhachal waterfalls which is about 5km away and walked back on the highway. This is surely fun and adventurous to do if you have the time and are fit, as it provides up close experience of the forest, Chalakkudy river and the Charpa waterfalls on foot while the traffic struggles along the congested narrow hill road alongside. We had lunch at a local restaurant and left by cab to catch our flight out that day evening from Kochi airport.

Rain Forest resort Athirappilly
Rain Forest resort Athirappilly

Dining @ Rain Forest resort
Dining @ Rain Forest resort

Swimming @ Rain Forest resort
Swimming @ Rain Forest resort

Overall a very memorable trip. It gave us a taste of why Kerala is such a great affordable destination for a vacation. All the people we interacted with were genuinely friendly and great hosts. Nature wise we enjoyed our stay at Kumarokom where we did some good birding. House boat ride also went by many good spots, some with huge number of water birds. Unfortunately they were too far and we couldn't stop to observe and photograph properly. Our home stay at Fort Kochi had such a good garden that it even hosted resident peacocks among others. On our highway walk in Athirappilly we were very lucky to spot both the Malabar Pied Hornbill and Malabar Grey Hornbill foraging on the same tree.

Charpa Waterfalls
Charpa Waterfalls

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