Kurinjal Peak: A peak over the Sahyadri mountain range

 

Kurinjal Peak, Kudremukh

Location: Bhagwati Nature Camp, Jungle Lodges

Date: Oct 2nd, 2024

To get there: From Bangalore via Hassan or Sakleshpur on the Mangalore Highway. Buses are also connected. Resort does not have phone connectivity so you have to plan the last mile connectivity before hand.

Distance: Apprx 350km, 7hrs by car.

Kurinjal Peak Trail type: Initially flat, then moist rain forests, opens into shola grasslands for a bit. Final ascent is on a rocky trail which needs some scrambling. 7km from trailhead to peak.

Facilities: None. Carry all the food and water you need. Permission to trek is mandatory from the Karnataka Forest department. Pass has to be picked up from the checkpost morning of your trek. Guide is compulsory and provided by KFD.

Map: Kurinjal Peak. Trail head is from the Kalasa main road. Detailed trail infromation from Indiahikes.

Kudremukh (Malleshwara Mining Town for me), influenced my formative years the most making me who I am today. My father worked at Canadian Met-Chem, consulting for KIOCL to set up the infrastructure for mining Iron ore. Our family relocated for 2 of those years and I did my 6th and 7th standard at Giri Jyoti Convent there. It was always my desire to go back and see the town where I first learned to converse in English, appreciate nature, aped the kids in Enid Blyton in the forests around us, had a diverse set of friends ranging from smart city kids to tribal kids, and just grew up into the awkward teens!

River at Bhagwati

So it was, 45 years after those carefree days, my wife and I booked to stay at Bhagwati Nature Camp, Jungle Lodges. It is about 8 km from Malleshwara which we were told had become a ghost town. We drove past it to reach the camp, a typical Jungle Lodges setup with cottages and tents surrounded by Kudremukh National Park and a river flowing by it.

We had not really planned any activities other than exploring the abandoned town. But when the other guests, a young couple and four engineering students, started planning a trek to Kurinjal Peak, we joined enthusiastically. It checked off a long-standing box for us to trek in the Western Ghats shola forests, after several treks overseas and in the Himalayas. They helpfully took care of getting the trek permit from Karnataka Forest Department that required a drive to the checkpoint early on the morning of the trek.

Shola Grasslands

Kurinjal Peak Trailhead

The trek is 7km each way with some elevation gain and usually takes about 5 hrs. to complete. Our assigned guide Kumar was ready to start around 7am which is ideal as it was predicted to get hot and humid later with chances of heavy rain with lightning by late afternoon. Crazy change of weather from cold to hot/humid to monsoon. However, we decided to have breakfast before the trek which pushed our start to nearly 10am. It meant we would be under a time constraint and could not go slow or rest in between or on the peak to avoid getting caught in dangerous weather conditions. Of course, the abundance of leeches in the rainforests ensured we were not tardy anywhere! 

Bridge at start

We parked our vehicles at the Bhagwati Nature Camp turnoff on the main road and walked a few hundred meters to the Kurunjal Peak trailhead. After crossing a bridge across a scenic river, the trail winds through rainforests and shola grasslands. Birds were scarce but butterflies were plenty. I enjoyed and captured their images for later identification as best as I could, despite the fast pace we were maintaining.

Rain forests

As soon as we entered the moist forest trails of Sahyadris, we were greeted by leeches lying in wait for us on the ground, plants that we brushed, and one even dropped down from a tree, a la Mission Impossible style! Everyone was helping everyone else to flick the creepy crawlies which do a very quick downward dog asana climbing technique, to find a nice succulent spot to latch on and suck blood. They anesthetize the spot so that we won't even feel the bite until they drop off, belly full of our precious blood and the wound starts bleeding heavily because they also inject something to prevent clotting! Like they were vampire insects. By the end, we had all contributed to their meal for the day in spite of the precautions we took. 

View point 1km before peak

Good place to relax

After about 6kms which took 2 hours, we reached a lovely viewpoint. Here we could see the majestic Sahyadri range with its rolling shola forests covered in low clouds. Finally, had a breather, and took some nice photos, before we started the final ascent to the peak towering about 200-300 meters above us. Here we had the option of scrambling up a narrow trail or walking on a road that led to an abandoned house midway. 

Go pro leading the way up

Final ascent

A quick rest at the house and the final ascent to reach the peak with its magnificent 360-degree views. I found myself more tired than usual for a moderate climb. Maybe it was age catching up or the fast pace without breaks or just one of those days. I also felt quite nauseous and nearly threw up. This was because of eating the excellent but oily Mangalore Buns for breakfast. Lesson learned. Avoid oily food before any serious treks.

Kurinjal Peak conquerors

Tailed Jay

Some rest. Obligatory photos. Phone calls as this was the only spot where we got a signal. Group shot. And down we started to avoid getting caught in the lightning, rain, or mist. Guide chose a shorter route but steeper descent which supposedly was 2 km less but felt same for us. After an eventless trek down, with beautiful butterfly sightings, we were back in our camp for a well-deserved lunch and a relaxing afternoon nap. 

Kudremukh View point

Overall, Kurinjal Peak is a wonderful beginner trek, easy to moderate level of difficulty, that lets you enjoy the lovely Sahyadri mountains. We were quite disappointed with the lack of any avian activity but the views, butterflies, and wildflowers made up for it. Another activity offered at Bhagwati is a landscape Safari to the Kudremukh view point. It is worth doing as jeep ride and views are very fun and enjoyable.

Abandoned Apartments

Of course, I didn't miss out on visiting my childhood home in Kudremukh town, about 8kms from the camp. On our way back to Bangalore, we drove around it for a couple of hours visiting the Helipad, the apartments where we stayed, and my school Giri Jyoti Convent. All were still standing but dilapidated. They did jog my memory and I enjoyed the wave of nostalgia leading me to share some inane events from that time of my life with others who listened patiently and hopefully enjoyed too and did not get bored. The town did give us a sighting of the Malabar Barbet and Malabar Giant Squirrel, which was a bonus.

Click here for some more images from the trek and trip.

A look into the rainforests and home of its King

Kalinga Center for Research and Ecology

https://kalingacre.com/

Since our friends had given high praise on their visits to the center, it was on top of our list when a short vacation opportunity arose. Many excuses made us put it off like the long drive, leeches, monsoon, etc. One fine day it just clicked and we were on our way for a 2 night stay. Later, we were left wondering why we had postponed this trip for such a long time!

It is indeed a long drive from Bangalore about 7 to 8 hrs. There were no leeches or monsoon in March but rains are always fun here. We drove leisurely planning to reach KCRE for lunch. But a stop at Kuvempu Kavi Mane in Kuppali, a lovely tribute and museum dedicated to the poet, took a couple of hours. So, we had lunch at Theerthahalli and reached KCRE late around 4pm.

We fell in love with the place, as soon as we reached the welcome arch amid thick rainforest and walked down the steps to their dining/lounge area. It's like you are in the middle of the western ghats with views of trees all around you wherever you are. Lovely ambiance if you like nature in its purest form.

As soon as we settled in, there was a call to rescue a King Cobra, ie Kalinga!, at a nearby village. To our surprise, the whole team started getting ready in perfect synchronization. We were invited to join if we were interested. Of course, we were! As we drove out, a call updated us that the snake had gone up a tree, so rescuing it at night would be difficult. We chose to wait for future updates in a lovely hilly area with great views. Finally, any possibility of a nighttime rescue was called off and we drove back to the center in the dark with some unexpected but thrilling encounter with wild Gaurs that crossed our road.

After dinner, one of the interns took us for a night walk. There was hope of spotting some snakes or nocturnal animals. But we were unlucky. However, walking in torchlight in the forest even on the broad path was exciting. We switched off the torch a few times to experience what it feels like if you were an animal in the forest. We spotted a nightjar, several spiders, insects, and moths.

Mornings are our time to just bird around wherever we stay. At KCRE, we didn't have to go far as we were already in the middle of a great birding spot. So, we just ambled around the place and enjoyed relaxed birding. Yellow-browed bulbul, Crimson-backed sunbird, Black-naped monarch, and Black woodpecker, were some of the beauties we spotted. Later a student researcher working on Malabar Pit Vipers took us on a short walk and gave us sightings of the beautiful snake. It is so well camouflaged that it took us several minutes to spot even with him telling us exactly where it was resting about 10-20ft away!

Can you spot the snake?

For an afternoon activity, there was a natural pool nearby. We followed another student intern who volunteered to take us there. It was a serene and peaceful spot in the middle of the rainforest. My wife who loves water immediately waded in while I walked around hunting for frogs, butterflies, odonates, and anything interesting. Our guide, settled down with her laptop to get some work done.

We had hardly spent about 30 minutes when her partner came running up to our spot from the center (about 1km away), yelled out that a rescue call had come, and promptly ran back. Of course, we wanted to be part of it too! So, we headed back at top speed and found that everyone had left already except for the intern who had selflessly informed us. We were instructed to head out as soon as possible. And we did with some adventurous driving, and many calls in between to the lead group to guide us on the rural roads, we managed to catch up just as they were about to enter the small village. whew!

All the running, driving, and hullabaloo to join the rescue was worth it as we watched enthralled Dr. Gowrishankar execute a perfect King Cobra rescue in difficult circumstances. The large adult snake had found some cozy accommodation in the external bath area which also doubled as a storage for this home. Gowri had to coax the snake out of that space and get it into the open area along a narrow corridor. After that risky maneuver, he guided the snake safely towards the prepared sack into which the 8 to 9-foot-long King Cobra happily slithered inside. The sack was then safely carried to the vehicle and released within hours at a suitable distance from the village into the forest where hopefully it will find a more natural home. Before heading out, Dr.

Gowrishankar spent some time with the villagers answering all their questions and allaying fears of the snake. Such debriefing and assurances ensure the villagers will reach out to KCRE whenever they encounter snakes rather than take dangerous risky solutions themselves.

Too soon our wonderful 2 day trip was over. We managed to do some morning birding before heading back to Bangalore. A wonderful trip that we hope to repeat sometime soon or as often as possible!

Selected images from our KCRE adventure.

Challenging climb for the views

Structure at the top

Location: Skandagiri Peak, Chikkaballapura
To get there: From Bangalore towards Hyderabad past the airport
Distance: Apprx 60km. 
Trail type: Easy hard mud, Rocky with some boulders.
Facilities: Toilets, Forest guards
Map: Skandagiri Peak Start point 

Date: Sep 19th, 2022

We planned this trek as preparation for our Sandakphu trek in the Himalayas. It fitted the requirement as it was moderate, close by, and required some climbing and effort testing our fitness levels. The trek can be done only by booking with the Karnataka Eco Tourism who will give permission to take the trail as well as provide a guide to the top.

Facilities at the start point

On the trail

Our group of 12 across 4 families, met at the parking place, Papagni Mutt where there is ample organized parking place. However, it was quite full on the day we went, so better to get there early. From there, it's about 200 or so meters to the trek starting point where there are toilets and the guide will meet you.

Bouldering for fun!

The trek itself was fairly easy if you are reasonably fit and do not have any physical issues. Otherwise, you may find the ascent and the rocky trail in some parts a bit tough. With suitable rests and proper pacing, its still doable. We did stop at couple of places for refreshments and let the kids do some bouldering which they enjoyed. The views are speactacular as always and we can see Nandi Hills from the top. There is an old abandoned temple on a a large granite boulder with remnants of a fort like compound all around. We rested and picniced there. Our birding was quite limited on the trek and the only highlight is we spotted Blue Rock Thrush at the top.

Descent was quick and we all enoyed a well deserved and  rejuvenating tender coconut at the bottom.

As always when on this trail, leave only your footmarks and take only photographs,

Some images that were taken on the trek  (and the ones inserted into this blog (c) Prasanna)

Ebird checklist of the trek.

Bheemasandra Kere : Lake with a rich diversity

Location: Bheemasandra Kere, near Tumkur, Karnataka
Date: Mar 11th, 2021
To get there: [Click here for Google Map].

It is about 10 km from Tumkur and is one of the two lakes located at the outskirts of Tumkur called Imran Mushtaq Twin Lakes. It is located adjacent to the town Melekote. The two lakes are locally called Melekote Kere and Bheemasandra Kere. We did not plan where to start exactly and ended up reaching the lake bund at its southernmost point by going through Melekote. Roads were narrow but our car made it through safely. We parked on the mud road next to the bund and walked along the canal eastwards and then north after we crossed over the canal at a bridge. This path continues along the lakeside until it reaches the Sewage Treatment plant, at which point we are at Bheemasandra Kere. We walked along the west side of the STP observing the lake all along and backtracked to our starting point along the same path.
Trail type: Muddy walking path in the half circumnavigation we did of the lake. Not sure about the other half but should be the same. The total distance, if we one can go fully around the lake, maybe 4 to 5km. We did about 2 km out and 2 km back.
Facilities: None at the lake. Melekote village is adjacent on the eastern side.

A casual conversation on March 10th with my friend in Tumkur who is an avid bird watcher revealed that both of us were free the following day, which was a public holiday. So, we used that the best way possible, that is to go Bird Watching! The choice was between lake habitat or forest habitat both of which are very good around Tumkur. We settled on a lake in hopes of seeing migrant ducks.

We left Bangalore early morning and reached Tumkur for an early breakfast of their famous Thatte idlis and Dosas. Soon after, we headed towards the lake using Google for guidance. Unfortunately, Maps was not aware of bird-watching spots around the huge lake. It guided us onto open fields and muddy roads which my car was reluctant to go on. Somehow we navigated ourselves back into Melekote village and using my friend's memory and guidance of villagers, we managed to reach the southernmost point of the twin lakes. Not exactly where we had intended. But as with life, it turned out to be excellent giving us a nice surprise, as you will find out.

 

As soon as we got out of the car, we were greeted by warblers, babblers in the bushes, and cormorants flying overhead. But our attention was drawn towards a wagtail on the paddy fields which we found was a Yellow Wagtail. As we watched it hopping around and wagging its tail, we got the surprise sighting of a Bluethroat male feeding in a small stream alongside the fields. We stood mesmerized at the beautiful colors forming a necklace at its throat (hence the name) and watched its antics for a good 10 to 15 mins before reluctantly starting out for our bird walk. 

A canal runs next to the lake bund and we walked on its side past a check gate until we came to a bridge. On this path, a small pond and some woods on the other side of the lake gave us sightings of cormorants, swamphen, kingfisher, warblers, swallows, and drongos. In addition, a Marsh Harrier gave us a flyby, Greater Spotted Eagle a fly overhead, as well as a water snake a swim by! We crossed over the bridge to get on a wide mud road along the lakeshore. We could now see the wide expanse of the lake and plenty more water birds. On the other side was a large and thick patch of reeds. As we stood looking at the reed bed we caught a glimpse of a crake which came out to feed and immediately scuttled back into the reeds barely giving us a chance to take a photo. But the view was sufficient to identify it as Ruddy-breasted Crake. On our way back, the crake was kind enough to re-appear at the same spot giving us heart-fulfilling views. This plucky and shy bird was managing to survive in a disturbed reed patch. One hopes it continues to do so and raises a family successfully.

The muddy trail took us past the point where a man-made bund separates the lakes to get us on Bheemasandra Kere to the north side. Far off we could see a flock of Garganey and another of Spot-billed ducks. At one point along this path, there was a beautiful and serene pool of water which was full of Black-winged Stilts feeding and enjoying themselves. Among them, we could also spot the Wood Sandpiper. Soon we reached a Sewage Treatment Plant (STP).

As we walked in through the gate, my friend directed my attention to underneath the concrete walkways across the STP sections.  Wow. It was an intricate network of nests built by the Streak-throated Swallows and a sight to behold. 100s of them were flying around while quickly popping in and out of their mud nests. It was hypnotizing to watch their energetic activity with no letup. Reluctantly, we continued along the STP edge until we reached the north point of the lake to be greeted by the sight of Garganeys and Northern Shovelers sitting like school children in a line on the posts of a submerged fence.

By this time the sun was high. Hot and tired we headed back along the same path to reach our parked car around noon. Along the way, in addition to the birds, we had seen, we got to observe frenzied feeding of the Blue-tailed Bee-eaters.  When we reached our car as if on cue, the Bluethroat came out and hopped around the bushes and we could have sworn waved goodbye to us!

It was a great birding outing. As always sad to see some of the human activity close to the lake which is bound to destroy this beautiful habitat and with it the bird diversity. Hopefully, it will be limited and the birds will continue to visit this lake as they escape the harsh winters and provide us the pleasure we experienced that day as our guests for a few months in the year.

Click below for the:

Ebird Checklist

Photos Album

Bidarakatte : A Scenic Trek

Location: Bidarakatte, Next to Savandurga, Near Bangalore
Date:  Oct 11th, 2020

To get there: [Click here for Google Map].  Take Mysore road towards Ramanagaram. Take a right from Ramanagara bus station and head straight for around 40 minutes. Take a right under the arch saying - Kempegowda Vanadhama Savanadurga to reach the Ramanagar division forest department in about 5 minutes. Check Forest Dept directions also for any updated information and also for booking (250 Rs/person) the trek as only guided treks are allowed here. There is another shorter route through Manchinbele, which we took on our way back.

Distance: About 50 to 60km from Jayanagar, Bangalore

Trekkers on the trail

Trail type:  Around 3 to 4 km one way if you take the longer scenic path that our guide chose on the way to the destination point. Less than 2 km with a short cut which we took on the way back. About 80% of the trail is walking on rocky mountains or monoliths. For an experienced and well-balanced trekker, this will be a breeze. But for those of us on the wrong side of the age curve or with some balance fears, this trek will feel very adventurous even though danger is minimal. Regardless, one has to be a bit careful where the slope becomes steep. In a few places, it is easier to slide down on our butts unglamorously than walk down in style. I chose the former! Note that it can get quite treacherous with rain or even a drizzle. Rubber-soled shoes with a good grip are ideal footwear.

Facilities: Ramnagar is a big town to stock up on any essentials if you are leaving Bangalore too early. A lot of village shops can be found on the way. Trailhead has a Forest Dept office with parking, drinking water, and basic toilet facilities. Warning: Toilet is usable but not clean.

It had been a while since we had gone on any group family trek close by. When a close friend suggested this half-day trek to get relief from the covid mandated incarceration, that drought finally came to an end. Bidarakatte is one of a set of eco trails that the Karnataka Forest Dept is managing and would be a first for us. Only small groups with guides are allowed on the trail with pre-booking. Our group of 6 was to start at 7.30 am. 

Up early, too early, on the trek day, with packed breakfast, we managed to pile into their XUV, delayed by only 15 mins from the 5.30am departure time. Taking some short cut village roads on a very cloudy day with the threat of rain, we reached the destination pretty much on time. We found the guide ready along with 3 others who would make up the full party of 10 now.

Waterfall

Endpoint of Savandurga Trek

Masks on initially, we headed down an easy path to what appeared to be a man-made lake. Scenic with the Savandurga Monolithic rock face towering over it. We didn't linger long and doubled back to head out on the actual trail along the foothills of the rock face. Calls of Sunbirds, White-browed Bulbul, Coucal could be heard but any movement was absent. No doubt, the birds were smarter to stay warm wherever they were instead of flying around in the dreary weather like us, humans. We did spot the tail of what looked like a Malkoha but the bird itself was too well hidden among the leaves to make a positive ID. 

Soon we came out onto massive rocky outcrops, with lots of small pools of water and cacti. Add in lush forest greenery in the ravines and the tall Sanvandurga monolith backdrop, the views were spectacular. Any angle was a keeper for a landscape photographer. Walking on the rocks is easy as long as you are careful and take it slow. We had to pass through remnants of a fort which was quite exciting and aesthetically very beautiful. As we walked along the broad ridges, we could see the valley below with several villages. 

Temple at endpoint

Indian Grey Mangoose

We reached the old abandoned temple in around 2 to 3 hours, stopping only for views and photos. The temple area overlooks a heavily forested ravine and some fort ramparts. Lots of great places to sit and enjoy a picnic breakfast while getting stunning views any which way you turn. Bird watching was a little more fruitful here with Blue Rock Thrush, Rufous Treepie, Egyptian vulture, Peregrine Falcon, and a nice flyby of a Tawny Eagle. A pair of Indian Grey Mangoose, scuttled along the edges giving curious glances at us.

Blue Rock Thrush

After spending a relaxed hour here, eating, birdwatching, exploring, or just lying back and staring at the skies, we headed back with rain, thankfully, still playing truant. As our guide chose a shorter route, we were back at the parking lot within an hour.

Overall, it is a great hike, close to the city with clean thick, and healthy forests. Add in the stunning views of rocks, pools, and fort ramparts, it is truly a gem. I sincerely hope the Karnataka Forest Dept maintains it the same way forever and with only guided treks.

As always, if you do choose to experience this trek, take only photos and leave only your footprints. I mean don't litter or damage the pristine environment.

Tawny Eagle

Some more photos are here.

Ebird Checklist for the avian curious.  As noted before we did miss a Malkoha and I think one other raptor and probably a few others whose calls we heard but could not ID.

Jog Falls - Natural beauty

Location: Jog Falls, Karnataka, India

Date: Oct 30th and Nov 1st, 2019

To get there: [Click here for Google Map].
From Bangalore, it is connected by Train and Bus. Driving takes around 6 hours on pretty good roads for the most part.

Trail type: This is a tourist spot. We did not trek in the proper sense. However, the main Mayura viewpoint of the falls is well developed and managed by the tourism department.  One can walk among the ramps to get different views at the top. For the fit and adventurous, they have constructed steps, 1388 in total, to reach the foot of the falls. This, in essence, was our "trek". The stair access is only from 9am to 4pm. Allocate 2 hours or more for this option to have a pleasant experience. The other public viewpoint at the British Bungalow side also has some ramps to walk around and gives a different perspective of the falls.

Facilities: Restaurants and small shops are present. Public restrooms are also there though we did not use it. HDFC ATM booth is also there. Plenty of car parking at both viewpoints.

It was disheartening for me to not have visited Jog Falls since my school days. That finally came to an end when we had to attend a family function at Shimoga to which we added a one-night stay-over near the falls. The Falls is about 100 kilometers from Shimoga and takes 2 hours drive time.

Our aim was to leave Bangalore by 6am and we missed it by 30 mins, even though packing was just dumping all our clothes and snacks into the car! Note that there are not many eating places on this route after Tumkur. We ended up eating at a small roadside restaurant in Hosadurga, which surprisingly had good Masala Dosa. Lunch was at Sagar 1 hr before the falls at a riverside hotel. Unfortunately, there was no bird activity on the lake. On the way back from Shimoga, we were recommended a much better hotel near Tarikere called Aramane.

View from Mayura

Gray or Hanuman Langur with a better view!

There were not many spots on the way either where we could do some roadside birding. So, we reached the Falls at the expected time of 2.30pm. Since the weather was fine, we just checked in and immediately headed towards the main viewpoint at Mayura Hotels. It is well managed here with ample parking space though I am guessing, it may overflow on popular days.

It was just after 3pm and we inquired about the steps to go down to the foot of the falls. We were told that the pathway closes by 4pm. So, after taking in a quick glance at the falls we hurried over to the steps. Its a total of 1380! but undaunted we started down fast. However, rain played the spoilsport and at about 80% down, we had to surrender and head back up. Our plan was to return the next day.

Clouds coming across

Stairs to the base

As we were told the route will be open for public at 9am, we started out first birding near our resort around 7am and then drove to British Bungalow for the fall views. Here also there are nice viewpoints and you can see and hear Roarer up close. However, the other falls are partially or fully hidden. We then drove on to the Mayura viewpoint (around 2 km) and started down the steps at 9am prompt as soon as the guard opened it. These 2 guards will go down and stay until the closing time at 4pm to prevent any untoward incidents. This time the descent was more leisurely and we enjoyed the views along the way. Birding wise, we were given a spectacular posing by Asian Fairy Bluebird which sat and posed for few mins just a few feet in front of us. Mountain imperial pigeon and small minivets were also seen.

Resting in gazebo at the start of the steps

At the bottom, they have created a small enclosure where one can wade in water from a small runoff falls. No one is allowed close to the bigger ones. We were told that when the falls are in full flow, the water will spray all the way to the enclosure. It was not the case for us as the flow was restricted. We spent about an hour there before heading up. We spotted only Pigeons and Egrets here. The Rock pigeons were perched in rock crevices naturally unlike their urban friends (or cousins?) who prefer the man-made tall structures. Hundreds of them if observed carefully tended to fly out in a flock once in a while.

It was a great trip and we were finally happy to have seen Jog Falls in all its beauty and take in the wonderful nature around it.

Bird list:  https://ebird.org/checklist/S61921322

At the base of the falls