Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Enchanting Japan: Food, people, nature and sake!


Kinkaku-ji Temple, Kyoto

Japan, in my mind a magical surreal country, high on my wish list, finally checked! Thanks to circumstances which made this the holiday choice for a family vacation. 

Arashiyama Bamboo forest,
 Kyoto
The trip was in two parts for us 2. First 9 days as part of the larger group of 12 people, we visited most of the well known spots as curated and managed by a tour group. For next 5 days, just the two of us explored the natural beauty of Japanese alps. I will try to pen down mostly just our experiences for this writeup and keep it active as I intend to update it whenever I remember something fascinating that I want to share (Last updated: 21.9.2025). Some interesting images are embedded in the blog, not all are connected to the writing. I scattered them around just for some color. Albums of selected images from the full trip are at the end of this blog.


Takoyakis, Dontonburi St, Osaka
Binzuru, Todai-ji Temple, Osaka

One of the most well known Japanese trait is their punctuality. Even though we had mentally prepared to shed our Indian flexible time habit, there were some interesting moments as Japan takes it to the next level. One of our Japanese guides, was quite direct at the introduction itself and politely told us that she knows Indians are not very punctual but she will manage! Oh well. Guilty. 🤷.  Near Sensoji Temple, Tokyo, we had just finished shopping and were returning to our Bus. A rickshaw tourist activity person tried to sell a ride. After we told  her our schedule, she pointed out that it takes 10mins to get to our parked bus, which we had to reach in about 20mins. She immediately advised us to go quickly so that we would be on time. Us being punctual and not inconveniencing others was more important than her making some money! Something I doubt would have happened in India. Another time, a hotel receptionist in Matsumoto who was also the driver to drop us to the station, ignored our request to take a photo of us in front the hotel and just went and sat in the drivers seat. First, we felt he was rude, then realized he was just being professional, or Japanese if you will, as it was just few minutes to the announced 9am departure and obliging us would have made him late by maximum a minute or 2. Yes, we understand now. 😊

Umeda Sky Building, Osaka


Lady with Umbrella, Gion Area, Kyoto

Borderless Digital Art
The biggest cultural feature is of Japan is of course, their politeness. Arigato gozaimasu or just Arigato, thank you in Japanese quickly became our most used phrase. Bowing was a bit awkward to time and sync so we reciprocated mostly.  Their politeness transcends normalcy as we know it to a fault many times. For instance, if you are blocking a bike, walking path or a narrow corridor, more often than not, rather than an excuse me, they just wait quietly until the path gets cleared. If on a bike, sometimes the biker even dismounts and follows slowly until we get off the path or go around us with a polite bow, and even an Arigato to us! Compare that to Amsterdam where we got yelled at to get off the path. The funny thing is, they have many unwritten rules that makes life better in Japan. However, when you break them, either ignorantly, carelessly or intentionally, no one will point it out or scold you. They just adjust preferring to avoid any confrontation. For example, rules like no eating/drinking while walking, no loud talking/music in public spaces. If you are sensitive and empathetic, you will soon realize yourself, become conscious, then embarrassed, finally self correcting the offending behavior. I have been trying that approach in Bengaluru hoping for similar response. 🤞

Another instance that comes to mind is when we checked out of the hotel in Kurobe. The receptionist was professionally helpful as expected in getting us on the the shuttle in time. After waving to us as our shuttle pulled away, she stood in perfect pose and gave a deep bow that she held until our bus circled around and she was out of our sight that was for about 200 mtrs, 1 minute or so. Felt unreal.


Dragon fountain to wash hands, Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Buffet plate, Royal Park, Kyoto

Sake!
Food is an indulgence in Japan. You can squeeze into any one of the cozy little izhakayas which are everywhere and enjoy wholesome tasty food with a carafe of Sake or local beer Asahi/Sapporo to keep the conversation going. Each place are different in cuisine, ambiance and experience. Izhakayas, as per google means: stay drink place and it is exactly that. A place to have a drink, order some food, get comfortable and unwind. We tried and enjoyed Sushi, Ramen noodles, Yakitori (grills), etc.,. Many are run like a family restaurant, and one in Matsumoto was managed entirely by a single person, the owner. Exterior will look like a quiet place, but will be lively once you push through the door or curtains and enter. 

The hotel buffet breakfasts were quite an adventure into new flavors. I especially enjoyed the one at Osaka our first stop, where the plates were cute with many separators to pick different dishes. They also had a card to place on table to indicate still eating or done so that you can go back to get another plate or drink without worrying about your plate getting taken away. Another hotel in Tokyo had a preset menu, one of which was Sumo Wrestlers breakfast. Of course I tried it and yes... felt strong afterwards. Honest. Sake, rice based drink, is nearly flavorless but very popular and available almost everywhere. We had Sake shots mostly whose cost ranged, per shot, from over 1500 Yen (900 INR) at an izhakaya in Osaka to my favorite experience, 100 Yen (60 INR) from a roadside vendor who served it with some flourish, near Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto. Truth be told, we could hardly make out the difference from the fancy ones to the basic ones. We could have been served just a shot glass of warm water and felt high! 😁. We finally figured out that the cheapest Sake were at the neighborhood convenience stores like Lawson or 7-eleven! 

Kajika Izakaya, Unazukionsen


Canvassing Poster, Tokyo

Typical Ryokan
Another Japanese experience we enjoyed were the Onsens, which are public baths or Spas. As per rules they can be called Onsens only if the water has with natural minerals. The fascinating part were the strict rules (not forcefully enforced but expected) on their use mostly for hygiene reasons, primary one being you have to be naked! We learnt how to Onsen from other blogs and YouTube videos. Some hotels also provided pictorial information sheets. Indians are very body shy by culture so this was as scary as jumping into a pit of snakes. The first attempt by one of us was in Kyoto at the hotel (free for guests) in the middle of the night with the hope no one else will be there. And it worked. Once we got to know how it is, the luxury of  relaxing in the Onsen after a tiring day(touring in our case) was just too good to skip and we used it at every opportunity we got, even mornings as Onsens are usually open 24x7 except for a small break to clean.
Rail guards waiting at Kuronagi


Kurobe rail and walk bridges

Collecting our Yukatas
In general, Onsens have a nice shower area with a low stool to sit and all bath accessories. Fresh towels (one big and small) and robes are provided in the room or handed over at check-in. Change area with basket and lockers to keep your robe and things. The bath itself is like a shallow swimming pool designed such that you can sit immersing yourself up to your waist or neck as per your liking. Water is quite hot, so how long you can stay depends on your tolerance level. After this they have a cooling off area with dryers/moisturizers/earbuds/etc. Finally, lounge area with chairs/fans/water/massagers to rest and maybe socialize if you came in a group. 

Private Jacuzzi,
Andon Ryokan, Tokyo

There are many funky things to mention which vary from one Onsen to another. To list a few, some hotels had a plastic basket which we found out later was to carry our things like towels to the Onsen and back. You need to wear Japanese Sandals provided in the room to the Onsen. Since all look alike, you will find tokens with numbers that you can place on your sandal pair to identify it when you come back. The small towel helps to cover your privates if you are shy as you walk from changing area to bath and then into the pool. It also helps for a quick dry in the bath area itself before you return for your robes in the changing area. One family friendly Ryokan had lots of water toys for the kids. Kurobe is known for its natural mineral water fed Onsens. Highlight was a visit to the natural open air Onsen at Kuronagi which can be reached via the Gorge Railway and a nice trek of about 30mins from the station. And yes, after more than a week of everyday Onsen baths, we did feel our skin feel softer and nicer. 😀

Running Trail, Tokyo

Japan is similar to western countries when it comes to personal space. People waiting in queues and even at street crossings place themselves at arms length of each other. We also noticed school children on a field trip keeping their bags evenly spaced out as they explored the area. One wonders though about the subway train videos where we see white gloved ushers pushing the riders and packing them like sardines inside the full coach. Maybe an exception is made there?

Japanese alps, Kamukochi.

I have this tendency to explain a lot or generally keep talking. This clashed with the service agents who are extremely professional and don't care much for small talk like in America. Once after I asked the agent to check about a bus we were interested in, I started talking about our options after we reach the destination to get her opinion. She just put a finger up to shush me and said politely, let me finish this first before you start asking me more questions. 😊

Umbrella and a fan!

One of the most unique aspects of Japanese culture is how they treat toilets. Respectfully and aesthetically. So much so, that they even have a toilet god, kawaya kami!. During our short visit itself we experienced many different types with one common trait, all were functional, very well designed, easy to use and very comfortable. A simple or sometimes complex dashboard with pictorial buttons, bidet style, music to drown sounds, temperature control, etc. I even read about a toilet with one way mirror (you can see out) set in public places as a social challenge. Children are given fun toilet lessons right from kindergarten. In one ryokan, we found amazing commissioned art by a famous artist in the wash area and laminated sheets of a short fable for some toilet read. At Tokyo Sky Deck, there is an emergency button too which we got to know when a rescue guard appeared suddenly outside the toilet, because it was pressed. After few minutes person inside came out relaxed oblivious of that fact. Apparently, not understanding some of the buttons, person had pressed all of them with one of them being the emergency one! 😂

It was indeed quite fascinating and fun to experience another culture so different from ours. If you do make the trip, do observe and leave a comment of anything that you felt was special and unique.

Summary of our itinerary.

  • Osaka (2 nights)
    • Hiroshima
    • Nara Deer Park
  • Kyoto (3 nights)
    • Kimono Experience
    • Arashiyama Bamboo forest
  • Tokyo (4 nights)
    • Sensoji Temple
    • Tokyo Skytree
    • Mt Fuji
    • Digital Art Museum
    • Andon Ryokan
  • Kurobe (2 nights)
    • Gorge Railway
  • Matsumoto (2 nights)
    • Kamikochi

Photo albums with captions







Austria: The hills are alive....


Sunset in Salzburg
Sunset in Salzburg

Our Europe adventure continued from  Switzerland to Austria when we boarded the train at St. Moritz. Interestingly, the train to Innsbruck was going to cross a whole another country. Liechtenstein which is just 160 sq. km. That was quite exciting for us and we clicked our proof when it stopped at Schaan-Vaduz station in that country.

Innsbruck
Innsbruck

There was no direct train from St Moritz to Innsbruck. We chose the route through Buchs where we could switch trains as our Swiss 8 day pass was still valid. It was a  picturesque journey through Austria made even more exciting as we passed through the Liechtenstein first. As it was just a one night stay, we didnt have any plan other than to explore the city. After we found our Airbnb, which took some doing as it was hidden inside a courtyard, we dropped off our luggage and headed back to the city. It was fun just hanging out there. Still we managed to drop into Swarosvki store, took some shots of Golden Roof house, and ate at a bustling pub restaurant choosing local dishes. Next day we stopped by a museum, Hofburg?, on way to the station to catch our Salzburg train.

Walk to Hohensalzburg Fortress
Walk to Hohensalzburg Fortress

View from room
Our Airbnb at Salzburg was walkable from Hohensalzburg Fortress. Or so we thought. Map showed a path from the backside and that turned out to be quite a trek. However it was scenic and we got to observe some of Austrian local like like cycling, gardens, seniors walking, etc. There is a funicular train from the city side which would have avoided the tough climb up. The fortress was lovely, with many view points, history, museums, cafes/restaurants (we didnt try any). As the sun set, we made it down to the city on the funicular this time. Explored the city as we made our way to our home, caught a fantastic sunset and picked up dinner along the way.

View from fortress
View from fortress


Lunch!

One the full day in Salzburg, we chose to do the Sound of Music self guided tour. This was best as we could keep our pace and visit almost all the movies points. A thoroughly enjoyable experience though very very tiring. Paid guide may have been more efficient and thorough. Our walk kept us in the core tourist area which is mostly around the Mirabel Palace and side streets with fun shopping/restaurants. Stern Biergarten an outdoor pub is where we had a relaxed lunch. After more than 2 weeks of vacation, such breaks were most welcome.

Mirabel Palace
Mirabel Palace

Next day we were on the train to Munich in the morning our final day in Europe. Only here we had border agents check our passport and visa. Even thought it was just half a day in the city, our schedule was packed. First stop was the BMW museum and showroom, then Munich New town where we met our resident nephew who kindly hosted a most welcome, Indian style dinner for us, and got to meet his family. BMW Museum was huge with lots of displays and information on its history. The adjacent showroom showcased their latest cars. A robot vending machine which made fresh coffee for us was quite futuristic. When we reached the New town to meet my nephew, we got luck as it coincided with the Clock chiming. The musical puppet show for the chime took more than 10m! After the dinner, it was back to our hostel and back our actual homes the next day!

And so it was, our European adventure came to an end at Munich Airport. We took back loads of memories, experiences, food, culture, all with a plenty of fun family time. 


Some more images can be seen in this album.

Cellphone images from the full Europe trip

Switzerland: Land of organized beauty


Glacier Express on Landwasser Viaduct
Glacier Express on Landwasser Viaduct

Switzerland had been on our wishlist for a long time. So, our 2024 Europe schedule was around Switzerland with a meetup of our European friends who flew over to trek its famed mountains together.

Chapel Bridge, Lucerne
Chapel Bridge, Lucerne

Our first sight of Switzerland was early morning on our overnight bus from Brussels to Lucerne where we stayed the longest, 4 out of the 9 days. Lucerne is a quaint city centrally located for many popular tourist spots. Our Airbnb host graciously offered to pick up our luggage after we reached early in the morning so we could do some local sightseeing before our late afternoon check-in. That worked out perfectly. We freshened up in the nearby railway station and then wandered around. We visited their famed Chapel Bridge,

Chateau Gutsch

 
Lion Monument, and Chateau Gutsch. At Gutsch our Google map showed that there was a Funicular to go down but we couldn't find the entry point even though we could hear the train! After searching for a bit, we saw some people come out from behind a building and point out the entry. Another surprise awaited us as this funny (first time for us!) train ran without anyone at its controls like an elevator in a building. There was no one else taking it to guide us! We read the instructions... got in... door closed... down it went at a very steep angle.. and got us to the foothills safely. *phew*. Quite an experience indeed. 

Water fountain, Lucerne

So many things were new and interesting for us on our first day in Switzerland. Water fountains with cute spouts that gave drinking water continuously, on-time buses (we had city passes for free rides), nature all around, etc. Finally, we visited the wonderful Museggmauer Fort with incredible views before heading to our Airbnb and finally checking in exhausted after a full day of walking and sightseeing.


Lion Monument, Lucerne




From the many possible destinations to experience the Swiss mountains around Lucerne, we chose to visit Mt. Rigi. It is known for its views, ferry ride, cable car, and cogwheel train. The ferry gave us some fantastic views whichever way we looked with idyllic sailboats, towering mountains, birds, quaint lakeside towns, and so on. The ferry itself was quite an experience with exposed engines and drink services on board for first-class passengers. 
On Ferry to Mt. Rigi

We chose to get off at Weggis, took the cable car to Kaltbad and then the Cogwheel train for the final leg. All are free with a Swiss Rail pass and you don't have to worry about buying tickets. Mt Rigi was a fun experience with short trails at the top to enjoy 360-degree views. There are also several trails to go up or down by foot but we had not planned to do them. 
View from Mt. Rigi

The next day we chose to go to Trummelbach Falls on a recommendation and enjoyed it thoroughly. The train from Lucerne is the same one that also goes to Grindelwald and the popular Jungfraujoch. How is that possible? Well, it splits at Interlaken with one part going towards Lauterbrunnen and the other Grindelwald! So, one has to board carefully at Lucerne paying close attention to the A/B part of the platform number. As expected we didn't, and had to switch over later in a mad scramble. The falls are a great experience to witness the power of water up close. 



Trummelbach Falls
We chose to walk back the 3km which turned out to be the highlight of the day as the views were mesmerizing and better experienced on foot. We also painted small personal canvasses midway to capture the ambiance, which was quite fun.
Walk back from Trummelbach


Our Airbnb was called Apartment Mount Pilatus, so named because we could see Mt Pilatus from the windows and the Kriens Cable car station was walkable from there. So, this was a must-do for us. Our host recommended that we check the cloud cover before visiting it. But, since this was our last day in Lucerne it was then or never. We were lucky to get great views with clear blue skies as we went up on the cable car to the first stage, Frankmuntegg. We walked around there and enjoyed some exhilarating toboggan in a bobsled-like setup before taking the Gondola to the top or Kulm. And yes....  the top was completely under cloud cover. 


Dragon Path, Mt. Pilatus

We walked the Dragon Path around the mountain top that was very deserted, freezing cold but thoroughly adventurous and enjoyable even without the views. There were rare (I think) high-altitude plants tagged with scientific names making the trail special. We headed back down via the worlds steepest cogwheel train  which was quite an experience. 

Lucerne is a wonderful city that helped us explore Swiss culture for the first time. It is located perfectly to visit many popular spots and mountains of Switzerland. 

This, useful link to compare the mountains we could visit from Lucerne, helped us tremendously. Thanks, Alexx!

Zurich from Grossmuenster Tower

Next was our meetup with my wife's school friends to bond and trek in the Swiss mountains. We took the train to Zurich to join the group. We spent half a day exploring the city. In that short time we managed to visit the huge National museum or Landesmuseum of which we hardly explored 10%, Grossmuenster church with its city views from the tower, and even had a lunch picnic along with the locals on a city bridge.  We caught up with our group for dinner at Hiltl after a lot of excitement with the 3 college classmates meeting after many years. Our treks were planned at Lugano but our stay was in Bellinzona, a quaint little town close to it. The train journey from Zurich to Bellinzona was quite interesting as two young friendly Swiss professionals riding along with us shared many aspects of Swiss culture.


Lido San Domenico, Lugano

Our first trek was the scenic Olive Grove Trail along the Lake Lugano shore. There were cute restaurants all along the trail. We relaxed at one, Lido San Domenico, for some drinks, after just 10 minutes into the trek! They were that irresistible. 😄. The trail winds through some extremely picturesque villages. We met a German team cycling all the way across Switzerland and beyond. 


Monte San Salvatore to Melide

The longer trek we did was the trail down from Monte San Salvatore. The Funicular to the top was fun, the views at the top were spectacular. We could even see Italy. Since our goal was to trek down we could not explore the area which included a museum. We chose the trail down to the lake, that descended most of the time winding through villages along the way. From the lakeside near Melide, we took a bus to Morcote for our Ferry back to Lugano. Morcote was another lovely lakeside city where we had our Lunch with beautiful lake views. As a bonus, we got to witness a Harley Davidson rally who were in that area for an event. 



Our next big Swiss adventure was the famous Glacier Express. We had booked the leg from Andermatt to St Moritz. Unfortunately, because of flooding in the area, we had to take the local trains for part of the itinerary, from Andermatt to Chur. So, we got to experience the Swiss mountains on both the local trains and the Glacier Express. The local trains were quite good. However, Glacier Express had larger windows, personalized service, and onboard catering. Regardless of which you choose to go on, the mountains and the vistas are truly magical to watch from a train window. As another blog described, no camera can do justice. Just put it away after a few images for nostalgia and enjoy the sight of mountains that go by. Highlight was going over the 122 years old picturesque Landwasser Viaduct


Swiss Alps from GE

We planned only an overnight stay at St Moritz, a picturesque upscale ski city. Our stay was in a lovely youth hostel next to the forest into which we did a quick morning walk before heading off to the railway station to begin our Austrian adventure.

Forest trails, St. Moritz

Many more images with captions in the photo albums below. Enjoy.

Lucerne and Glacier Express

Lugano with friends

Cellphone images from the full Europe trip

Mussegmauer Fort, Lucerne
Cogwheel Train, Mt. Rigi
Top of the World, Mt. Rigi
Wild flowers, Mt. Pilatus

National Museum, Zurich

Picturesque Cottage, San Salvatore trail
Glacier Express