Bidarakatte : A Scenic Trek

Location: Bidarakatte, Next to Savandurga, Near Bangalore
Date:  Oct 11th, 2020

To get there: [Click here for Google Map].  Take Mysore road towards Ramanagaram. Take a right from Ramanagara bus station and head straight for around 40 minutes. Take a right under the arch saying - Kempegowda Vanadhama Savanadurga to reach the Ramanagar division forest department in about 5 minutes. Check Forest Dept directions also for any updated information and also for booking (250 Rs/person) the trek as only guided treks are allowed here. There is another shorter route through Manchinbele, which we took on our way back.

Distance: About 50 to 60km from Jayanagar, Bangalore

Trekkers on the trail

Trail type:  Around 3 to 4 km one way if you take the longer scenic path that our guide chose on the way to the destination point. Less than 2 km with a short cut which we took on the way back. About 80% of the trail is walking on rocky mountains or monoliths. For an experienced and well-balanced trekker, this will be a breeze. But for those of us on the wrong side of the age curve or with some balance fears, this trek will feel very adventurous even though danger is minimal. Regardless, one has to be a bit careful where the slope becomes steep. In a few places, it is easier to slide down on our butts unglamorously than walk down in style. I chose the former! Note that it can get quite treacherous with rain or even a drizzle. Rubber-soled shoes with a good grip are ideal footwear.

Facilities: Ramnagar is a big town to stock up on any essentials if you are leaving Bangalore too early. A lot of village shops can be found on the way. Trailhead has a Forest Dept office with parking, drinking water, and basic toilet facilities. Warning: Toilet is usable but not clean.

It had been a while since we had gone on any group family trek close by. When a close friend suggested this half-day trek to get relief from the covid mandated incarceration, that drought finally came to an end. Bidarakatte is one of a set of eco trails that the Karnataka Forest Dept is managing and would be a first for us. Only small groups with guides are allowed on the trail with pre-booking. Our group of 6 was to start at 7.30 am. 

Up early, too early, on the trek day, with packed breakfast, we managed to pile into their XUV, delayed by only 15 mins from the 5.30am departure time. Taking some short cut village roads on a very cloudy day with the threat of rain, we reached the destination pretty much on time. We found the guide ready along with 3 others who would make up the full party of 10 now.

Waterfall

Endpoint of Savandurga Trek

Masks on initially, we headed down an easy path to what appeared to be a man-made lake. Scenic with the Savandurga Monolithic rock face towering over it. We didn't linger long and doubled back to head out on the actual trail along the foothills of the rock face. Calls of Sunbirds, White-browed Bulbul, Coucal could be heard but any movement was absent. No doubt, the birds were smarter to stay warm wherever they were instead of flying around in the dreary weather like us, humans. We did spot the tail of what looked like a Malkoha but the bird itself was too well hidden among the leaves to make a positive ID. 

Soon we came out onto massive rocky outcrops, with lots of small pools of water and cacti. Add in lush forest greenery in the ravines and the tall Sanvandurga monolith backdrop, the views were spectacular. Any angle was a keeper for a landscape photographer. Walking on the rocks is easy as long as you are careful and take it slow. We had to pass through remnants of a fort which was quite exciting and aesthetically very beautiful. As we walked along the broad ridges, we could see the valley below with several villages. 

Temple at endpoint

Indian Grey Mangoose

We reached the old abandoned temple in around 2 to 3 hours, stopping only for views and photos. The temple area overlooks a heavily forested ravine and some fort ramparts. Lots of great places to sit and enjoy a picnic breakfast while getting stunning views any which way you turn. Bird watching was a little more fruitful here with Blue Rock Thrush, Rufous Treepie, Egyptian vulture, Peregrine Falcon, and a nice flyby of a Tawny Eagle. A pair of Indian Grey Mangoose, scuttled along the edges giving curious glances at us.

Blue Rock Thrush

After spending a relaxed hour here, eating, birdwatching, exploring, or just lying back and staring at the skies, we headed back with rain, thankfully, still playing truant. As our guide chose a shorter route, we were back at the parking lot within an hour.

Overall, it is a great hike, close to the city with clean thick, and healthy forests. Add in the stunning views of rocks, pools, and fort ramparts, it is truly a gem. I sincerely hope the Karnataka Forest Dept maintains it the same way forever and with only guided treks.

As always, if you do choose to experience this trek, take only photos and leave only your footprints. I mean don't litter or damage the pristine environment.

Tawny Eagle

Some more photos are here.

Ebird Checklist for the avian curious.  As noted before we did miss a Malkoha and I think one other raptor and probably a few others whose calls we heard but could not ID.

An unexpected moment with serpents

This incident occurred in April of 2020. Our layout at that time had about one third of houses built with the rest left as semi maintained plots. Since this was previously open land bordering wilderness, snakes were quite common. During that month in the midst of Covid lockdown, there was one fairly large Rat snake which had a routine of cutting across our backyard everyday evening. Those days any activity around our house was a welcome event and Rat snake crossing our yard was right up there with the best of them. That summer day in April, as soon as we heard the Mynas alarm calls, I knew our passage guest had arrived and starting tracking it while photographing its progress from a safe distance.

Rat Snake entering our backyard from one side cautiously.

It looked around the place for any dangers before continuing on its way to cross our yard.

By the time I scrambled from the bedroom window to our utility door side, it was almost out of our yard and I could just see its tail. I then went out to the front of the open plot to observe it progress.

I took these shots as it crossed our neighboring empty plot. My attention was solely on the Rat snake and somehow never noticed its friend? or cousin?s body barely visible under the hood at that time.

In my next shot, I still had not noticed the additional model in my photograph. Only when I was processing my images,  I could clearly see the Spectacled Cobra or the Indian Cobra under the Rat snake agitated enough to open its hood and be fully alert.

The Rat snake seemed oblivious to the presence of the Cobra or just ignored it? and went along its way. The Cobra just waited it out and continued with its activities. I have no idea where it went after that as I never saw it was there in the first place! Just another routine close encounter in the world of Nature, I suppose.

In the meantime, this cat also thought all this was entertaining and worth  investigating up close. I nearly found out if, Curiosity DOES indeed kill the cat!

Thankfully for this fella, the Rat snake just went on its way and I had no idea where the Cobra went afterwards or even if the cat was aware of the Cobra.

My last shot of the Rat Snake as it entered the backyard of the next house in its constant search for food, no doubt. All this activity took less than 10 mins.

Final note: Snakes for the most part stay away from Humans. Danger only occurs when humans encroach into their area like a burrow/dark areas under stones or if one steps on a resting snake in thick grass by mistake. If you encounter any in your area, please call an ethical snake rescuer(Ex. From PFA:People for animals) who will catch it with no injury to the reptile and minimal stress, then release it in a nearby forest area. Do not get amateur catchers with clipper-like instruments that will harm the spines or more and even cause death due to excessive stress.

Goa Beach Trek : Beauty and Ruggedness

Location: North Goa beaches (Sequerim to Arambol),  Goa, India

Date: Feb 22nd, 2020

To get there: [Click here for Google Map]. (Our path was all along the beach)
From Bangalore, it is connected by Bus, Trian or Flight. Driving takes around 12 hours, on pretty good roads, to reach Baga where we stayed the night. If you take the train or flight, it should be fairly easy to get a cab from there.

Trail type: Beaches, beaches, beaches, and some Hilly trails! About 70% of the trek was wide sandy beaches. Just sandals or barefoot is enough here. 20% is on some hilly trails where you would need shoes. Basic sneakers are enough though trekking shoes will be safer with better grip if you are not confident. Few carried support sticks that helped on these trails. The unplanned detour we took from Anjuna to Ozran was all slippery shoreline rocks and best avoided to be on the safe side. The total distance is approximately 30+ kms. We stopped at Arambol after around 27kms.

Facilities: Beach shacks! Avoid drinking alcohol though as you will get dehydrated.


Trekking on a beach? That too Goa beaches!  The concept was so unique that I had no other choice but to accept and join when my friend forwarded the route map of the upcoming trek with his trekking group. It turned out to be a once in a lifetime kind of experience. The closest similar trek I had done previously was at Narrows, Zion NP, almost 30 years back, where we trekked into a narrow gorge from one end and came out on the other side after an overnight stay in the middle. The differences here were, no overnight camping and people were everywhere throughout the trek.

So, it was with great expectations that I boarded our Tempo Traveller(TT) along with 9 other intrepid trekkers from Bangalore late one night. The plan was to reach our starting point in North Goa by afternoon. Rest up. Start trek early the next day morning from Sequerim Beach and move along the coastline until we reach Querim Beach where our TT will pick us back up, a good 30+ kms away while passing some of the most gorgeous and well known Goa beaches along the way.

Sunset at Baga Beach

As planned, we reached Baga Beach for lunch which was Goan Fish Curry and Rice! Checked into our homestay like accommodation where everyone chose to rest for a bit before heading to Baga Beach about a km away. We would cross this spot the next day but that evening it was heavily
crowded as if some major festival was being celebrated. Guess the Goa carnival due to start the next day had something to do with it. However, we were all compensated with a spectacular sunset. Dinner, then early bedtime to be fresh for the following day.

All of us managed to be up and ready to go with a small backpack, at 5.30 as planned and into the TT to be driven the 10 or so kms to Sequerim beach so that we walk all the way back again. Weird yes, but then the walk would cross the famous beaches of Candolim and Calangute. The start was from Fort

Start at Sequerim Beach early morning

Aguada, tip of Sequerim Beach when it was still twilight just past 6am. Energetically, we set out North. I was expecting quiet beaches but instead was treated to a lot of tourists out early to enjoy various activities. Middle-aged man doing yoga asanas while his wife took the photos, young buffed up males doing their morning jog or pushups, children just enjoying the sand and water while their parents relaxed on the beach and fishermen hauling in the night catch.

The walk along this stretch was very pleasant on the wide sandy beaches and cool morning weather. I, as always, lagged alone far behind the leaders as we stretched out in pairs or 3's. Making sure I don't lose sight of the group, though where can they go?!, I enjoyed the pleasure of boat and people photography in almost perfect morning light conditions. A highlight was the sighting of a school of Dolphins frolicking about 100 meters out.  After about 2 hours we completed the 9kms or so stretch covering, Sequerim, Candolim, Calangute and reached Baga around 8.30am where we had enjoyed the Sunset the previous night.

At Baga we decide not to stop and continued along a trail which goes over a hill skirting the ocean with fantastic views and drops down into Anjuna Beach. The trail though fairly moderate

does need some scrambling in spots. I finally got to see some avian action and was lucky to spot a well-hidden Common Kingfisher in a small tree, sandpipers and cormorants. Here, we stopped for a well-deserved breakfast in one of the famed Goa Shacks as we took in the slowly warming ocean from the comfort of the shack.


Finally, after the long walk and a strenuous climb, we relaxed to some omelets and coffee. Ignoring our mind which was suggesting staying there for the rest of the day, we hoisted our backpacks and
stepped on the beach heading north like some single-minded Serengeti wildebeest which can't stop in spite of many obstacles until it reaches its destination.

Anjuna Beach

Western Reef Egret

Not sure if it was because of high tide but the beach at Anjuna was very narrow. We had to scramble fast in many places but still got quite wet as we headed north. Structures have been put to block seawater and the shacks built higher to mitigate the issue. I guess we got a taste of what's to come with Global-warming if that indeed was the reason for the deterioration of the famous Anjuna. At one point it became so bad that few of us who were leading had to climb up from the beach and take the road behind the shacks.

As we reached the end of Anjuna, we had two paths to reach Ozran beach which was on the other side of a hill. Skirt along the beach which becomes rocky at that point or go over the hill using a walking path. A local we asked, seemed to indicate that skirting was the easiest and fastest or we didn't fully understand what he said. In hindsight, he probably thought we were some major explorers and gave us a challenge!  Anyway, trusting his advice we took the beach route and started scrambling over the rocks expecting to cross over in maybe 30 mins and avoid climbing up and getting

View of Chopara Fort from Ozran

lost. Little did we know that would turn out to be quite a nightmarish choice! Initially, it was fun finding rocks to climb over and having water splash your legs. But at several points, it tested our limits with water reaching up to our waist and jagged rocks scratching all parts of our body. It almost made us turn back. Somehow we managed to persevere (just like the wildebeest!) and reached the other side only to find that the rest of the group who were behind us chose wisely to go over the hill and had already reached before us! They were relaxing on the beach impatiently waiting for us to join!

The beaches from Ozram to Chopara Fort were again quite nice and sandy. Even at a quick pace, it was an enjoyable walk. Soon we were near the base of the picturesque fort and a much needed tender coconut break. This was perfect as we later took an unorthodox path up a steep hill to reach the fort. The views on that path of Ozram beach on one side and Vagator on the other were simply out of the world. The estuary where river Chopara joins the Arabian sea is also very picturesque. We left Chopara fort through the main entrance, which the more sedate tourists use, and walked down to the jetty. A private fisherman gave us a drop to the other side of the river.

Gulls and Terns at Morjim

Plover

We were now on the wide expanse of the fantastic Morjim beach. As we neared it on the boat, we could see lots of Gulls and Terns on a sandy island enjoying the water and plenty of food I am sure. Finally, I could click away happily at some sea birds. Shortly after that, we stopped for lunch. It was a relaxed affair as everyone was tired. We wanted the waiters to hurry but then not really. Fish curry and rice again but one can't go wrong with that selection anywhere in Goa! We relished the intake of much-needed nourishment.

As we crossed Ashwem beach to reach Arambol, I got to see plovers which were hopping around all along the way happily snacking on snails and crabs. The beaches here are pristine and crowds quite less. On Arombol a beach fair was taking place with products mostly comprising the artistic output of the locals which included long-staying foreigners. It was now already close to 5pm and we had to be prudent and end our trek here, about 4 kms shy of our destination which was Querim Beach. Our TT was instructed to pick us up from here.


After quickly refreshing ourselves at a nearby hotel, we were all packed in and on our way towards Bangalore by 7pm just as it started getting dark. After having dinner on the way, with tired muscles but carrying a lifetime of memories, we leaned back and gave in to much-needed sleep as our TT snaked its way along the winding roads towards home.



As always, take only photographs, keep memories and leave only footprints on all your treks!

People photos

Nature photos