Goa Beach Trek : Beauty and Ruggedness

Location: North Goa beaches (Sequerim to Arambol),  Goa, India

Date: Feb 22nd, 2020

To get there: [Click here for Google Map]. (Our path was all along the beach)
From Bangalore, it is connected by Bus, Trian or Flight. Driving takes around 12 hours, on pretty good roads, to reach Baga where we stayed the night. If you take the train or flight, it should be fairly easy to get a cab from there.

Trail type: Beaches, beaches, beaches, and some Hilly trails! About 70% of the trek was wide sandy beaches. Just sandals or barefoot is enough here. 20% is on some hilly trails where you would need shoes. Basic sneakers are enough though trekking shoes will be safer with better grip if you are not confident. Few carried support sticks that helped on these trails. The unplanned detour we took from Anjuna to Ozran was all slippery shoreline rocks and best avoided to be on the safe side. The total distance is approximately 30+ kms. We stopped at Arambol after around 27kms.

Facilities: Beach shacks! Avoid drinking alcohol though as you will get dehydrated.


Trekking on a beach? That too Goa beaches!  The concept was so unique that I had no other choice but to accept and join when my friend forwarded the route map of the upcoming trek with his trekking group. It turned out to be a once in a lifetime kind of experience. The closest similar trek I had done previously was at Narrows, Zion NP, almost 30 years back, where we trekked into a narrow gorge from one end and came out on the other side after an overnight stay in the middle. The differences here were, no overnight camping and people were everywhere throughout the trek.

So, it was with great expectations that I boarded our Tempo Traveller(TT) along with 9 other intrepid trekkers from Bangalore late one night. The plan was to reach our starting point in North Goa by afternoon. Rest up. Start trek early the next day morning from Sequerim Beach and move along the coastline until we reach Querim Beach where our TT will pick us back up, a good 30+ kms away while passing some of the most gorgeous and well known Goa beaches along the way.

Sunset at Baga Beach

As planned, we reached Baga Beach for lunch which was Goan Fish Curry and Rice! Checked into our homestay like accommodation where everyone chose to rest for a bit before heading to Baga Beach about a km away. We would cross this spot the next day but that evening it was heavily
crowded as if some major festival was being celebrated. Guess the Goa carnival due to start the next day had something to do with it. However, we were all compensated with a spectacular sunset. Dinner, then early bedtime to be fresh for the following day.

All of us managed to be up and ready to go with a small backpack, at 5.30 as planned and into the TT to be driven the 10 or so kms to Sequerim beach so that we walk all the way back again. Weird yes, but then the walk would cross the famous beaches of Candolim and Calangute. The start was from Fort

Start at Sequerim Beach early morning

Aguada, tip of Sequerim Beach when it was still twilight just past 6am. Energetically, we set out North. I was expecting quiet beaches but instead was treated to a lot of tourists out early to enjoy various activities. Middle-aged man doing yoga asanas while his wife took the photos, young buffed up males doing their morning jog or pushups, children just enjoying the sand and water while their parents relaxed on the beach and fishermen hauling in the night catch.

The walk along this stretch was very pleasant on the wide sandy beaches and cool morning weather. I, as always, lagged alone far behind the leaders as we stretched out in pairs or 3's. Making sure I don't lose sight of the group, though where can they go?!, I enjoyed the pleasure of boat and people photography in almost perfect morning light conditions. A highlight was the sighting of a school of Dolphins frolicking about 100 meters out.  After about 2 hours we completed the 9kms or so stretch covering, Sequerim, Candolim, Calangute and reached Baga around 8.30am where we had enjoyed the Sunset the previous night.

At Baga we decide not to stop and continued along a trail which goes over a hill skirting the ocean with fantastic views and drops down into Anjuna Beach. The trail though fairly moderate

does need some scrambling in spots. I finally got to see some avian action and was lucky to spot a well-hidden Common Kingfisher in a small tree, sandpipers and cormorants. Here, we stopped for a well-deserved breakfast in one of the famed Goa Shacks as we took in the slowly warming ocean from the comfort of the shack.


Finally, after the long walk and a strenuous climb, we relaxed to some omelets and coffee. Ignoring our mind which was suggesting staying there for the rest of the day, we hoisted our backpacks and
stepped on the beach heading north like some single-minded Serengeti wildebeest which can't stop in spite of many obstacles until it reaches its destination.

Anjuna Beach

Western Reef Egret

Not sure if it was because of high tide but the beach at Anjuna was very narrow. We had to scramble fast in many places but still got quite wet as we headed north. Structures have been put to block seawater and the shacks built higher to mitigate the issue. I guess we got a taste of what's to come with Global-warming if that indeed was the reason for the deterioration of the famous Anjuna. At one point it became so bad that few of us who were leading had to climb up from the beach and take the road behind the shacks.

As we reached the end of Anjuna, we had two paths to reach Ozran beach which was on the other side of a hill. Skirt along the beach which becomes rocky at that point or go over the hill using a walking path. A local we asked, seemed to indicate that skirting was the easiest and fastest or we didn't fully understand what he said. In hindsight, he probably thought we were some major explorers and gave us a challenge!  Anyway, trusting his advice we took the beach route and started scrambling over the rocks expecting to cross over in maybe 30 mins and avoid climbing up and getting

View of Chopara Fort from Ozran

lost. Little did we know that would turn out to be quite a nightmarish choice! Initially, it was fun finding rocks to climb over and having water splash your legs. But at several points, it tested our limits with water reaching up to our waist and jagged rocks scratching all parts of our body. It almost made us turn back. Somehow we managed to persevere (just like the wildebeest!) and reached the other side only to find that the rest of the group who were behind us chose wisely to go over the hill and had already reached before us! They were relaxing on the beach impatiently waiting for us to join!

The beaches from Ozram to Chopara Fort were again quite nice and sandy. Even at a quick pace, it was an enjoyable walk. Soon we were near the base of the picturesque fort and a much needed tender coconut break. This was perfect as we later took an unorthodox path up a steep hill to reach the fort. The views on that path of Ozram beach on one side and Vagator on the other were simply out of the world. The estuary where river Chopara joins the Arabian sea is also very picturesque. We left Chopara fort through the main entrance, which the more sedate tourists use, and walked down to the jetty. A private fisherman gave us a drop to the other side of the river.

Gulls and Terns at Morjim

Plover

We were now on the wide expanse of the fantastic Morjim beach. As we neared it on the boat, we could see lots of Gulls and Terns on a sandy island enjoying the water and plenty of food I am sure. Finally, I could click away happily at some sea birds. Shortly after that, we stopped for lunch. It was a relaxed affair as everyone was tired. We wanted the waiters to hurry but then not really. Fish curry and rice again but one can't go wrong with that selection anywhere in Goa! We relished the intake of much-needed nourishment.

As we crossed Ashwem beach to reach Arambol, I got to see plovers which were hopping around all along the way happily snacking on snails and crabs. The beaches here are pristine and crowds quite less. On Arombol a beach fair was taking place with products mostly comprising the artistic output of the locals which included long-staying foreigners. It was now already close to 5pm and we had to be prudent and end our trek here, about 4 kms shy of our destination which was Querim Beach. Our TT was instructed to pick us up from here.


After quickly refreshing ourselves at a nearby hotel, we were all packed in and on our way towards Bangalore by 7pm just as it started getting dark. After having dinner on the way, with tired muscles but carrying a lifetime of memories, we leaned back and gave in to much-needed sleep as our TT snaked its way along the winding roads towards home.



As always, take only photographs, keep memories and leave only footprints on all your treks!

People photos

Nature photos

Jog Falls - Natural beauty

Location: Jog Falls, Karnataka, India

Date: Oct 30th and Nov 1st, 2019

To get there: [Click here for Google Map].
From Bangalore, it is connected by Train and Bus. Driving takes around 6 hours on pretty good roads for the most part.

Trail type: This is a tourist spot. We did not trek in the proper sense. However, the main Mayura viewpoint of the falls is well developed and managed by the tourism department.  One can walk among the ramps to get different views at the top. For the fit and adventurous, they have constructed steps, 1388 in total, to reach the foot of the falls. This, in essence, was our "trek". The stair access is only from 9am to 4pm. Allocate 2 hours or more for this option to have a pleasant experience. The other public viewpoint at the British Bungalow side also has some ramps to walk around and gives a different perspective of the falls.

Facilities: Restaurants and small shops are present. Public restrooms are also there though we did not use it. HDFC ATM booth is also there. Plenty of car parking at both viewpoints.

It was disheartening for me to not have visited Jog Falls since my school days. That finally came to an end when we had to attend a family function at Shimoga to which we added a one-night stay-over near the falls. The Falls is about 100 kilometers from Shimoga and takes 2 hours drive time.

Our aim was to leave Bangalore by 6am and we missed it by 30 mins, even though packing was just dumping all our clothes and snacks into the car! Note that there are not many eating places on this route after Tumkur. We ended up eating at a small roadside restaurant in Hosadurga, which surprisingly had good Masala Dosa. Lunch was at Sagar 1 hr before the falls at a riverside hotel. Unfortunately, there was no bird activity on the lake. On the way back from Shimoga, we were recommended a much better hotel near Tarikere called Aramane.

View from Mayura

Gray or Hanuman Langur with a better view!

There were not many spots on the way either where we could do some roadside birding. So, we reached the Falls at the expected time of 2.30pm. Since the weather was fine, we just checked in and immediately headed towards the main viewpoint at Mayura Hotels. It is well managed here with ample parking space though I am guessing, it may overflow on popular days.

It was just after 3pm and we inquired about the steps to go down to the foot of the falls. We were told that the pathway closes by 4pm. So, after taking in a quick glance at the falls we hurried over to the steps. Its a total of 1380! but undaunted we started down fast. However, rain played the spoilsport and at about 80% down, we had to surrender and head back up. Our plan was to return the next day.

Clouds coming across

Stairs to the base

As we were told the route will be open for public at 9am, we started out first birding near our resort around 7am and then drove to British Bungalow for the fall views. Here also there are nice viewpoints and you can see and hear Roarer up close. However, the other falls are partially or fully hidden. We then drove on to the Mayura viewpoint (around 2 km) and started down the steps at 9am prompt as soon as the guard opened it. These 2 guards will go down and stay until the closing time at 4pm to prevent any untoward incidents. This time the descent was more leisurely and we enjoyed the views along the way. Birding wise, we were given a spectacular posing by Asian Fairy Bluebird which sat and posed for few mins just a few feet in front of us. Mountain imperial pigeon and small minivets were also seen.

Resting in gazebo at the start of the steps

At the bottom, they have created a small enclosure where one can wade in water from a small runoff falls. No one is allowed close to the bigger ones. We were told that when the falls are in full flow, the water will spray all the way to the enclosure. It was not the case for us as the flow was restricted. We spent about an hour there before heading up. We spotted only Pigeons and Egrets here. The Rock pigeons were perched in rock crevices naturally unlike their urban friends (or cousins?) who prefer the man-made tall structures. Hundreds of them if observed carefully tended to fly out in a flock once in a while.

It was a great trip and we were finally happy to have seen Jog Falls in all its beauty and take in the wonderful nature around it.

Bird list:  https://ebird.org/checklist/S61921322

At the base of the falls

A promising Bangalore Lake in transition

Location: Doddakallasandra Lake or Konankunte Lake
Date: Dec 26th, 2018, 4pm to 6pm.
To get there: [Click here for Google Map].
It is located in South Bangalore behind Sri Kumarans Childrens Home, Mallasandra.
Distance:  15kms from Vidhana Soudha
Trail type: Go on the path between the school gate and parking lot. After 50 meters you will come on to a short walking path around hundred meters with benches to rest. Rest of the lake is inaccessible at this time.

Facilities: Benches to sit in few places. No toilet facilities. Food, you are still in the city so plenty of places close by. Avoid picnicking. If you have to, get only finger food in reusable boxes and do not litter.

We used to visit this lake 10 years back when my child was studying at this school. One just needed to scramble up to the bund from the parking lot to enjoy the then fairly clear and beautiful lake.

So, I was looking forward to checking out the lake again when a request came to me for a quick bird survey on the lake. Few of us reached at the same time and trudged up the initial short path towards the lake. On the right hand side there is foliage to make it a nice habitat for forest birds while on the left we have flowering trees along the school compound attracting many nectar feeding birds.

As we reach the lake, there is a newly made walking path on the left for about 50 to 100 meters with benches for those inclined to sit and take in the vista. Rest of the lake can be circumvented fully by the adventurous though not at all welcoming or easy at many points. There is a small island in the middle.

The first thing that strikes you as a bird watcher are the numerous Gray Herons that inhabit the tall trees on the island. They can be seen flying to and from the shore, sometimes carrying nesting material. As you scan the waters, numerous Little Grebes and Common Coots are spotted easily. Egrets on the far side trees with Pond Herons on the shores. Spot billed Ducks and Cormorants

can be seen along the islands as well. As we were walking along the short path, there are numerous trees which hosts Warblers, Sunbirds, Mynahs as well as a lone Brahminy Kite. We were also lucky to spot a pair of Common Moorhens and a solitary Green Sandpiper flying across the water.

The lake itself has had better days. Because of pollution from sewage and garbage inflow from neighboring localities, it has turned green with algal growth with significant amounts of garbage along the shores. Though much effort is being made to clear the garbage and revive this lake by various groups, the source of the problem remains and garbage makes its way to the lake within weeks. This problem is also being worked on and hopefully will be solved soon.

After about an hour or so, we headed back to our cars. A pleasant surprise awaited us as we saw a flock of about 30 to 50 birds swirl around and settle on a tree adjacent to the school. They turned out to be mainly the migrant Chestnut-tailed Starlings with few Rosy Starlings also. Happily we returned to our cars and were again greeted by several large flocks of Rosy Starlings returning to roost on the trees near the lake. It was an amazing sight to watch as 100s of them settled down quickly on small trees to rest for the night.

Ebird check lists from the 2 visits we made to this place for the bird count:
Dec 19th Morning
Dec 26th Evening

As always, do not litter the place. Even though some spots may look bad, we don't really want to add to that, do we?