Goa Beach Trek : Beauty and Ruggedness

Location: North Goa beaches (Sequerim to Arambol),  Goa, India

Date: Feb 22nd, 2020

To get there: [Click here for Google Map]. (Our path was all along the beach)
From Bangalore, it is connected by Bus, Trian or Flight. Driving takes around 12 hours, on pretty good roads, to reach Baga where we stayed the night. If you take the train or flight, it should be fairly easy to get a cab from there.

Trail type: Beaches, beaches, beaches, and some Hilly trails! About 70% of the trek was wide sandy beaches. Just sandals or barefoot is enough here. 20% is on some hilly trails where you would need shoes. Basic sneakers are enough though trekking shoes will be safer with better grip if you are not confident. Few carried support sticks that helped on these trails. The unplanned detour we took from Anjuna to Ozran was all slippery shoreline rocks and best avoided to be on the safe side. The total distance is approximately 30+ kms. We stopped at Arambol after around 27kms.

Facilities: Beach shacks! Avoid drinking alcohol though as you will get dehydrated.


Trekking on a beach? That too Goa beaches!  The concept was so unique that I had no other choice but to accept and join when my friend forwarded the route map of the upcoming trek with his trekking group. It turned out to be a once in a lifetime kind of experience. The closest similar trek I had done previously was at Narrows, Zion NP, almost 30 years back, where we trekked into a narrow gorge from one end and came out on the other side after an overnight stay in the middle. The differences here were, no overnight camping and people were everywhere throughout the trek.

So, it was with great expectations that I boarded our Tempo Traveller(TT) along with 9 other intrepid trekkers from Bangalore late one night. The plan was to reach our starting point in North Goa by afternoon. Rest up. Start trek early the next day morning from Sequerim Beach and move along the coastline until we reach Querim Beach where our TT will pick us back up, a good 30+ kms away while passing some of the most gorgeous and well known Goa beaches along the way.

Sunset at Baga Beach

As planned, we reached Baga Beach for lunch which was Goan Fish Curry and Rice! Checked into our homestay like accommodation where everyone chose to rest for a bit before heading to Baga Beach about a km away. We would cross this spot the next day but that evening it was heavily
crowded as if some major festival was being celebrated. Guess the Goa carnival due to start the next day had something to do with it. However, we were all compensated with a spectacular sunset. Dinner, then early bedtime to be fresh for the following day.

All of us managed to be up and ready to go with a small backpack, at 5.30 as planned and into the TT to be driven the 10 or so kms to Sequerim beach so that we walk all the way back again. Weird yes, but then the walk would cross the famous beaches of Candolim and Calangute. The start was from Fort

Start at Sequerim Beach early morning

Aguada, tip of Sequerim Beach when it was still twilight just past 6am. Energetically, we set out North. I was expecting quiet beaches but instead was treated to a lot of tourists out early to enjoy various activities. Middle-aged man doing yoga asanas while his wife took the photos, young buffed up males doing their morning jog or pushups, children just enjoying the sand and water while their parents relaxed on the beach and fishermen hauling in the night catch.

The walk along this stretch was very pleasant on the wide sandy beaches and cool morning weather. I, as always, lagged alone far behind the leaders as we stretched out in pairs or 3's. Making sure I don't lose sight of the group, though where can they go?!, I enjoyed the pleasure of boat and people photography in almost perfect morning light conditions. A highlight was the sighting of a school of Dolphins frolicking about 100 meters out.  After about 2 hours we completed the 9kms or so stretch covering, Sequerim, Candolim, Calangute and reached Baga around 8.30am where we had enjoyed the Sunset the previous night.

At Baga we decide not to stop and continued along a trail which goes over a hill skirting the ocean with fantastic views and drops down into Anjuna Beach. The trail though fairly moderate

does need some scrambling in spots. I finally got to see some avian action and was lucky to spot a well-hidden Common Kingfisher in a small tree, sandpipers and cormorants. Here, we stopped for a well-deserved breakfast in one of the famed Goa Shacks as we took in the slowly warming ocean from the comfort of the shack.


Finally, after the long walk and a strenuous climb, we relaxed to some omelets and coffee. Ignoring our mind which was suggesting staying there for the rest of the day, we hoisted our backpacks and
stepped on the beach heading north like some single-minded Serengeti wildebeest which can't stop in spite of many obstacles until it reaches its destination.

Anjuna Beach

Western Reef Egret

Not sure if it was because of high tide but the beach at Anjuna was very narrow. We had to scramble fast in many places but still got quite wet as we headed north. Structures have been put to block seawater and the shacks built higher to mitigate the issue. I guess we got a taste of what's to come with Global-warming if that indeed was the reason for the deterioration of the famous Anjuna. At one point it became so bad that few of us who were leading had to climb up from the beach and take the road behind the shacks.

As we reached the end of Anjuna, we had two paths to reach Ozran beach which was on the other side of a hill. Skirt along the beach which becomes rocky at that point or go over the hill using a walking path. A local we asked, seemed to indicate that skirting was the easiest and fastest or we didn't fully understand what he said. In hindsight, he probably thought we were some major explorers and gave us a challenge!  Anyway, trusting his advice we took the beach route and started scrambling over the rocks expecting to cross over in maybe 30 mins and avoid climbing up and getting

View of Chopara Fort from Ozran

lost. Little did we know that would turn out to be quite a nightmarish choice! Initially, it was fun finding rocks to climb over and having water splash your legs. But at several points, it tested our limits with water reaching up to our waist and jagged rocks scratching all parts of our body. It almost made us turn back. Somehow we managed to persevere (just like the wildebeest!) and reached the other side only to find that the rest of the group who were behind us chose wisely to go over the hill and had already reached before us! They were relaxing on the beach impatiently waiting for us to join!

The beaches from Ozram to Chopara Fort were again quite nice and sandy. Even at a quick pace, it was an enjoyable walk. Soon we were near the base of the picturesque fort and a much needed tender coconut break. This was perfect as we later took an unorthodox path up a steep hill to reach the fort. The views on that path of Ozram beach on one side and Vagator on the other were simply out of the world. The estuary where river Chopara joins the Arabian sea is also very picturesque. We left Chopara fort through the main entrance, which the more sedate tourists use, and walked down to the jetty. A private fisherman gave us a drop to the other side of the river.

Gulls and Terns at Morjim

Plover

We were now on the wide expanse of the fantastic Morjim beach. As we neared it on the boat, we could see lots of Gulls and Terns on a sandy island enjoying the water and plenty of food I am sure. Finally, I could click away happily at some sea birds. Shortly after that, we stopped for lunch. It was a relaxed affair as everyone was tired. We wanted the waiters to hurry but then not really. Fish curry and rice again but one can't go wrong with that selection anywhere in Goa! We relished the intake of much-needed nourishment.

As we crossed Ashwem beach to reach Arambol, I got to see plovers which were hopping around all along the way happily snacking on snails and crabs. The beaches here are pristine and crowds quite less. On Arombol a beach fair was taking place with products mostly comprising the artistic output of the locals which included long-staying foreigners. It was now already close to 5pm and we had to be prudent and end our trek here, about 4 kms shy of our destination which was Querim Beach. Our TT was instructed to pick us up from here.


After quickly refreshing ourselves at a nearby hotel, we were all packed in and on our way towards Bangalore by 7pm just as it started getting dark. After having dinner on the way, with tired muscles but carrying a lifetime of memories, we leaned back and gave in to much-needed sleep as our TT snaked its way along the winding roads towards home.



As always, take only photographs, keep memories and leave only footprints on all your treks!

People photos

Nature photos

Karnataka Pelagic Trip 2011

My first task after I got the opportunity to go Pelagic birding was to Google the term  "Pelagic"! As an active amateur birder I had heard the term before and seen reports on few of the trips from Kerala and Karnataka. I knew they went out in a boat and looked for birds, but I had no idea on what Pelagic actually meant.

Well, the ever dependable wikipedia gave me the necessary enlightenment. Pelagic zone means the surface of a water body which is not close to the shore. And so, Pelagic Birding meant looking for birds which live mostly in the Pelagic area. Uh, huh. Got it. These birds live over the ocean surface coming to the shore, usually on uninhabited islands, only for breeding. Amazing nature! And now I had a chance to see it first hand.

Still, I was not sure what to expect from this expedition as I stood on the wharf, smelling strongly of fish, at Malpe Port looking at the smallish fishing boat which was to be our(about 22 of us!) home for 2 days and a night. The 3 man crew, one substituting as cook as well, looked at us with some bemusement as we piled our bags containing cameras, books, binoculars, snacks at one end of the boat. Different kind of catch, this!

As we headed out of the port, we got to see Western Reef Egrets perched all along the rocky coastline. Pretty soon, we were out in the open sea and got our first thrilling sightings of Pelagic birds, the Parasitic Skua and a Great Crested Tern.

It is indeed a whole new way of birding out there. As we keep scanning the mostly deserted waterscape, suddenly we would hear a shout from the lookouts scanning the water at the bow. "Tern" or "Petrel", as the case may be.  All of us would then scramble for our respective binoculars or cameras.

If it is a Tern flying over, well, we have to be quick, as amazingly even in this wide open space they disappear from our vision within seconds of the first sighting. If it is Petrels as was the case most often on our trip, we have to scan in the indicated direction carefully to spot the small black dots dancing on the waves. But, if we are lucky, it may be a floating debris on which we will find a perfect model of a Pelagic Bird which will pose to our hearts content as we bob around, with the engine switched off, just few feet away from it. After such brief darshans of our feathered friends, we would slink back to our respective spots until the next call to wake us up from the semi-slumber. "Petrel at 3 0'clock"!!!

On this trip, I had been quite hopeful on seeing other sea creatures such as Whales. I had entertained visions of seeing these majestic animals spouting water and swishing their fins as they swam past our boat. Alas, they had other plans for that weekend. Hopefully next time. However, we got to see the sea snake  and large schools of jelly fish several times.

Nighttime was quite an experience, especially when all the lights were turned off to pitch darkness.  We had hoped for some nocturnal visits with maybe a few birds perching on the boat as is possible, I believe. We were not lucky enough. Early morning though we got a surprise visit from a Bat, which upon finding our Boat decided to hitch a ride all the way to coast instead of flying the 80 odd miles. As we headed back to the coast, the highlights were a large flock of Petrels, Skua harassing a tern and a sudden flyby of a Masked Booby.

Overall, it was a good, adventurous trip. We were lucky that the sea was calm on both the days and all of us managed without any extreme sea-sickness. Our cook did a great job with just  a stove and few vessels for cooking, even providing tea both evenings. Truly, an experience to be cherished for ever.

Images from the trip can be viewed here.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ViJ1tb7dt6k5E7v66

A short video which gives you an idea on how it is from the boat.

Bird list from Dr. Subramanya report :

1. Swinhoe's Storm Petrel: encountered first at 10.61 Km from Malpe Port, 58 birds seen in all during the trip
2. Parasitic Jaeger: first seen at 12.50 Km from the Port, 27 birds in all, with several instances of their marauding attacks on Great Crested Terns
3. Great Crested Tern: first seen at 16.03 Km from Port, 78 birds in all
4. Bridled Tern: first bird seen at 16.88 km from Port, 95 birds in all
5. Common Tern: 2 birds seen in all, the first one seen at 16.91 Km
6. Wilson's Storm Petrel: 98 birds seen in all during the trip with the first one encountered at 20.48 Km
7. Masked Booby: Solo seen on the second day when we were about 12.31 Km from Malpe Port. The bird that we observed was a juvenile with a distinct white collar behind a dark brown head. The bird departed swiftly with two Skuas in hot pursuit.
8. Gulls : 3 birds identity to be confirmed

A related blog on this trip by L. Shyamal: Adrift