Just a look into Gods Own Country - Kerala

Local boat into Alleppey backwater community

Our much-desired and always postponed, vacation in the famed Kerala backwaters happened only because a friend suggested staying together  at Rain Forest resort in Athirappilly since they were planning a family visit to that area. Just the trigger we needed! We added about 6 days of travel around Kerala before we joined them and that of course included a houseboat stay!

Kumarakom Backwaters - Backwater Breeze Homestay - 2 days

Alleppey - Riverinecruises Houseboat - 1 day
Fort Kochi - Mothers Inn Homestay - 2 days
Athilrappilly - Rain Forest Resort - 1 day

Timings

Time, comfort, or convenience was not a factor for us which let us explore Kochi public transport fully. We landed at around 10am and had several hours to reach our homestay, Backwaters Breeze, Kumarakom for lunch. Coming out of Kochi airport, its metro feeder bus stop to Aluva, the north endpoint of Kochi Metro, is just a few hundred metres away. We boarded one after resting in a comfortable waiting area for about 15mins. The bus was clean and comfortable. From Aluva  to SN Junction, its last stop Metro took about an hour where we alighted. We took an Auto instead of walking to the nearest local Bus stop. When we told the driver our final destination, he advised us to take a bus to Vaikom first and then another to Kumarakom. Convinced, we boarded the next local with the local commuters on way to Vaikom which came almost immediately. It was a basic bus and crowded but clean. The bus stop at Vaikom was large and nice. However the bus to our destination was not there and didn't arrive for almost 30 mins! Many locals who were also waiting for the same bus gave us good company. Since this was exactly the type of experience we desired we were quite contented waiting along without getting anxious. :). It was a short ride from there and we took an auto (2 km) from final stop to our homestay. Overall it was easy and fun as long as you have the time and don't care much for comfort.

Metro feeder bus at Kochi Airport

Kochi Metro

Inside Kochi Metro

Vaikom Bus Stop

Bus from Vaikom to Kumarakom 

The breakup for this leg for those interested in details (like me :) ).

Cost  Mode  From to destination

120  bus     kochi airport to aluva metro

120  metro aluva to SN Junction, thripunithara
50    auto   station to bus stop
66    bus    thripunithara to vaikom
46    bus    vaikom to kaipuzhamuttu 
80    auto   kaipuzhamuttu to backwaters breeze
Total: 482 Rupees (4hr30mins). 

Airport prepaid quoted 3300 Rupees (~2hrs)

Balcony view Backwaters Breeze, Kumarakom

After our slow but fun commute, it was a nice lunch near the homestay with our first taste of Kerala fried fish with awesome views at their dabha like minimal partner restaurant. Homestay is simple and comfortable enough for us with some wonderful views from the long balcony. Here we did mostly birdwatching, eating, and relaxing. One of the days (9am to 4pm) we walked all the way to Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, about 3kms which was quite strenuous. Sanctuary itself was well-kept and wonderful to walk through but birds were scarce. We did enjoy encounters with Tortoises and Monitor lizards quite up close. We chose to take an ad-hoc boat, a bit of backwater experience, on the way back to drop us off near the road and then took an auto back to our homestay. Birdwatching around the homestay was quite fruitful. Highlight was 10s of Blue tailed Bee-eaters and 100s of Baya weavers foraging in the morning and evenings over the fields.

Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary Map

View from Homestay balcony

Lunch on Homestay balcony

Lunch in adjoint partner restaurant

Sunset over backwaters from homestay

Our next activity was a night in House boat. We had booked for a 1 BR houseboat with TIK Holidays. Our host suggested public ferry run by Kerala State Water transport to cross Lake Vembanad to Muhamma first and then auto or bus. This was great advice as public ferry was like a tourist activity for just 10Rs with lovely views of the huge lake. There was autos available at Muhamma Jetty. We could take one to the closest bus stop and then a bus to Alleppey or directly by auto to our boathouse. We chose the latter as we didn't have time. It was a quick 45 min ride and soon we were checking out our comfortable houseboat.

Inside Ferry to Muhamma

Ferry doing U Turn at boarding point

Ferry timings

Waiting area at Kumarakom boarding point

Auto from Muhamma to Alleppey

The houseboat experience was exciting and fun as it was the first time for us. Our trip went something like this. 12noon check-in. We sailed out into the backwaters quickly and had freshly prepared lunch while docked alongside the channel. We continued to sail among 10s or even 100s of other boats deeper into the channels. Around 5pm, a local boatman came alongside and offered a ride in a small boat into the narrower channels where local people resided for 1000 Rs.(2 of us). We took the offer and felt it was well worth it as it gives a glimpse of the backwater community, ex we saw school children dropped back home in a boat! Docked for night and had dinner of freshly cooked tiger prawns that were purchased by us at a shop along the way. Morning breakfast and returned to starting point by 10am.

Lunch on houseboat

Fresh catch from Backwater Fish shop

Relaxing on houseboat

Local boat into Backwater village

Our next stop was Fort Kochi. We decided to stop for an hour to check out Marari beach which was along the way. Since the beach was a little bit inside from the bus route, we were advised to book an auto which would take us to the beach, wait an hour and then drop us back on the highway. This worked well. Beach itself is small with not much to do other than walk up and down. The bus ride to Fort Kochi was fun as it started raining. 

Bus to Fort Kochi

Soon, we reached our homestay, Mother's Inn and settled into their quaint little heritage house turned into a B&B. Evening, we walked to Vasco Da Gama Square, checked out the Chinese fishing nets and ate at Kashi Art Cafe. We capped off the night with a show on Kathakali. Next day, we took an auto to Mattancherry and roamed around the Jew town. It has the 500 year old Paradesi synagogue. Our lunch was at Ginger House which has a very scenic dining place overlooking the port. Return was by local bus and we took the obligatory Kerala oil massage near our homestay.  Finally it was onto our last stop in Athirappilly. 

Kathakali at Fort Kochi

Lunch at Ginger House, Mattancherry

Murals in Mattancherry

Jew town Mattancherry

Here we used the newly launched Kerala Water Metro to cross the bay to Ernakulam by taking a local ferry to Vypin just to try it out. It was worth it and done very nicely. From Ernakulam we took what was advertised as express bus to Chalakudy from where we could get another bus to Athirappilly. However we were late and the bus was definitely not express, stopping everywhere. So, we hopped off midway and booked a taxi to our resort. This ensured we just made it before lunch closed. Of course with more time we would have stayed on as the connecting local bus stops at the entrance of the resort itself.

Kochi Water Metro

Mothers Inn Homestay Fort Kochi

Athirappilly resort is very well designed and located. We thoroughly enjoyed the visual treat that it provided every which way you look out from the resort. The following day, we took an auto to Vazhachal waterfalls which is about 5km away and walked back on the highway. This is surely fun and adventurous to do if you have the time and are fit, as it provides up close experience of the forest, Chalakkudy river and the Charpa waterfalls on foot while the traffic struggles along the congested narrow hill road alongside. We had lunch at a local restaurant and left by cab to catch our flight out that day evening from Kochi airport.

Rain Forest resort Athirappilly

Dining @ Rain Forest resort

Swimming @ Rain Forest resort

Overall a very memorable trip. It gave us a taste of why Kerala is such a great affordable destination for a vacation. All the people we interacted with were genuinely friendly and great hosts. Nature wise we enjoyed our stay at Kumarokom where we did some good birding. House boat ride also went by many good spots, some with huge number of water birds. Unfortunately they were too far and we couldn't stop to observe and photograph properly. Our home stay at Fort Kochi had such a good garden that it even hosted resident peacocks among others. On our highway walk in Athirappilly we were very lucky to spot both the Malabar Pied Hornbill and Malabar Grey Hornbill foraging on the same tree.

Charpa Waterfalls

Ebird Checklists (along with bird images):

Kumarakom Evening

Kumarakom Morning

Walk to Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary

Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary Watch Tower

Kumarakom Morning Day 2

Kumarakom to Muhamma Ferry

Alappuzha (Alleppey) Backwaters in local boat

Alappuzha Night stay point in house boat

Fort Kochi Mothers Inn Homestay

Image album links:

Full trip photo journey

Athirapally Stay

Huthridurga Trek : When wet and misty

 

Location: Huthridurga

Date: Dec 10th, 2022

To get there: From Bangalore, go on Tumkur Road, and take the left to Hassan/Mangalore at Nelamangala. Take a deviation towards Hutridurga before you reach Kunigal.

Distance: Apprx 80km. 

Trail type: We were able to do only about a kilometer to the abandoned temple. This part had manually cut steps on the rock with railings for the most part. Rest was easy to walk trails with man-made or organized steps. The final part was a bit steep but still fairly easy.

Facilities: There is a temple with plenty of paid parking hosted by the family staying there. We paid 50rs for our car. Small shops in the village nearby.

Map: Trek Start point 

This was one of those constantly talked about but always postponed plans with our Saturday basketball group. Finally, only 4 of us managed to shake off scheduling conflicts and ignore weather predictions (rainy!) and gathered at my house near Thalagattapura around 7am. We carpooled and started off promptly under misty, cloudy, and intermittent drizzle, with rain gear and snacks!

The drive was comfortable on mostly NH roads except for the last 10 or so kilometers. The trek start point is just past a village temple which also provides ample parking space. The family there maintains that and charges a nominal fee to leave your car. Since it was already close to 9am we chose to eat up some of the food we had bought then itself before heading out. I chose to leave my camera behind because of the weather and the threat of heavy rains later. Therefore, our photo shoots had to be with the mid to high-end cell cameras that all of us carried.

So, it was in uncomfortable ponchos and bulky rain jackets that we started up the paved path toward the hills of Hutridurga. However, the ethereal look of the hills shrouded in mist and clouds at the top, wet paths, and washed clean nature more than compensated for the dreary weather. We trudged up the sloping rocks with cut steps with a lot of expectations and energy. Bird watching was minimal with most IDs by calls and little visual activity by Sunbirds, Munias. 

The views were spectacular as we progressed at a very leisurely pace.  Even at 10am, we were the only ones trekking up, understandable as ours was the first car parked and the weather was still poor. It made the trek experience that much more special and personal with invariable photo shoots every 10 steps or so!

After about a kilometer, we reached an abandoned temple structure to the right of the path perched on the edge of the hill. It had a small Kalyani with water. We chose to stop here and go through the rest of our snacks. The place was isolated at that time with spectacular views all around. We stayed there for almost 30 mins, just munching on food, chatting, and catching up with nostalgic, often hilarious stories mostly from our school and college days.

As the weather still did not clear and the higher reaches of the hills remained shrouded in clouds/mist, we decided to climb down and head back. This time we encountered several parties making their way up including a large trek group. Better late than never, I guess. 

We were back at the trailhead by 11am and enjoyed a "productive" photo shoot with the weather clearing a bit and the trail and hills giving us wonderful clean backgrounds. Shortly thereafter, we were back in the car and planning a much-deserved (or not!) lunch self-treat!

As always, when on a trek anywhere, take only memories and photos and leave behind only your footprints. Avoid disposing of all kinds of trash.

Click here for more images.

Ebird Checklist

Return to Hutridurga on 21st Jan 2023

I returned to Hutridurga with a larger group and better weather. This time we reached around 9am after stopping for breakfast at Paakshala@solur on the Mangalore highway. As the weather was good and it was a saturday, we found out just how popular this trek was. Parking was almost full with more cars parked outside the village. The climb until the Temple point was still good though not as scenic. We stopped for 10 mins at this place to rest and continued along the path for another half kilometer or so where we came upon a nice flat area of the peak, which turned out to be an excellent spot for picnic and views. We relaxed here for almost 30 mins with various photo shoot attempts before heading back. Reached the parking place before 12 noon and headed back to Bangalore.

Birding was very poor because of the time of day and lack of focus. However we were lucky to spot the vulnerable Yellow-throated Bulbul and a pair of Egyptian vultures.

Click here for more images.

Ebird Checklist

Sandakphu: Trekking for amazing views

Sleeping Buddha (Kumbakarna, Kanchenjunga)

Location: Sandakphu, West Bengal
Date: Oct 31st to Nov 6th 2021
To get there: [Click here for Google Map].
From Bangalore, flight to Bhagdogra. Then on a Jeep arranged by IndiaHikes(IH) Vehicle to Srikhola where our Base camp (teahouse) and the trailhead were located.
Trail type: Mixed trails. Kutcha roads, paved/pebbled/rocky trails, soft narrow muddy trails, and steep climbs through pine forests on narrow trails. We did not encounter snow at all. I trekked the whole time with camera and binoculars around my neck. So, it's a moderate trek and can be done by anyone who is reasonably fit.

Facilities: Once we left Srikhola, I do not remember any populated places with general stores and such. Samanden was a small village but we did not visit any shops there. Sandakphu on Day 6 is when we started seeing more houses and people but again did not really check out any stores. We had prepared for all our needs during the trek and our food requirements were entirely taken care of by IH. Also, our trek leader explained in detail how IH was prepared to take care of any medical emergency including evacuation if necessary. That was quite comforting.

Everest range (Lhotse, Everest, Makalu)

Himalayas always calls you back, I guess. As with the Kheerganga Trek we did in 2018, this was also initiated by a friend of ours and as then, we did not need to be asked again to return to Himalayas for what looked to be an amazing trek organized by India Hikes or IH. Updated details on this particular trek on their website can be found here.

So, it was that on 31st Oct 2021, 17 of us which included 6 kids, were at Bangalore Airport taking the flight to Baghdogra, then met up with 3 more trekkers there and the 20 us of traveled together in 3 jeeps to reach Srikhola for what turned out to be a trek that gave us all that was promised on paper and much much more. 

As a change from my usual trek writeups, this time I created a photo/video blog with text in it to describe how this trek went. It gives better context and flows with the visual aids to relive our experience. You need to click on the 3 dots on the phone or (i) icon on the laptop to show the text always as you swipe through the images/videos. 

Photo/Video Blog of the Sandakphu Trek

My other photo albums:

Birds

Flora

Insects

Views

People

Ebird checklists from the trek:

Srikhola

Srikhola to Samanden

Samanden

Samanden to Molley

Garmin activity tracker for most of the trails we took with its various metrics:

Srikhola to Samanden

Samanden to Molley

Molley to Phalut

Sabargram to Aal

Sandakphu to Gurdum

Gurdum to Srikhola

Campsite at Aal with Sleeping Buddha

A compromised but worthwhile Urban Nature Preserve

Location: Turahalli Tree Park, Bangalore

Date: Nov 12, 2021

To get there: Take the Kanakapura main road. About 6km from Sarakki Signal, you will pass DMart on your left. Take the next right towards Turahalli forest. Turn left opposite Sobha Forest Edge apartments.

Trail type: Broad paved and unpaved paths. It also has extensive narrow trails for exploring the park boundaries.

Facilities: Parking. Benches to sit and relax. Forest officials are present sometimes. Toilet facility has been built but was closed when we went. Gazebo and large viewpoint with plenty of seating to relax.

Map: Turahalli Tree Park Main Gate

Rugged trails

This park exists adjacent to the larger Turahalli Forest for public access and enjoyment. The forest and the park are divided by a 100 ft road. The forest itself has been closed off to public access for a few years to protect the flora and fauna from human disturbance. So, the Turahalli tree park is the alternative to experience a bit of the forest ambiance. I say it is compromised because there is much pressure to turn into a normal park solely for the entertainment of us humans than ensuring the well-being of the creatures and plants which inhabit it. For example, a children's play area has come up now. Many statues have been installed, presumably to share nature information with the public, like Tiger, Pangolin. Though the intent is commendable, I feel they don't belong if the idea is to keep the park as natural as possible. Shouldn't information posters be sufficient? But then that's just me and in the minority on this, I am sure.

View point in middle of park

Wide paths

Anyway, back to our visit and I hope yours too sometime soon. Even though this park is very close to our place, we had never gone there mostly because Turahalli Forest was a better option for bird watching. When the forest was close to public, we decided to do a bird walk here with little expectations. About 4 of us managed to make time in the morning and we were at the main gate around 7.30am. A wide path greeted us as soon as we entered the park through the side gate. We chose to take a narrower more natural path by turning right after the gate. Vegetation was quite wild and thick here. We continued until we hit the park bounday near the road and then did a counter clockwise walk along the edge of the park on narrow natural trials. At some points we came inwards a bit to check out the Gazebo and the view points. 

Forest patches

View from gazebo

Overall the park has been maintained well with some healthy undisturbed vegetation in several patches. Most paths are narrow and natural with the exception of some near the gate which are wide with skirtings. An ill adviced childrens play area has come up now. Hopefully it is the first and last! as it does not support the concept of a tree park and will only disturb the wildlife there. Also, my personal opinion is that children should attempt to learn about nature in these types of parks and not to play on man mande structures. We also had a decent birding experience with Small Minivet, Gray-breasted Prinia, Black-shouldered Kite being highlights among others. Click this link for a complete checklist with the images on Ebird. 

City enveloping the park

In spite of some drawbacks, I feel this park is a good step towards creating family and public friendly nature parks which lets the average person experience nature easily. Hope the Karnataka Forest Department, maintians it well and does not succumb to construction pressure and build unnecessary structures that does not fit into a Nature Park. It also relieves pressure on the Turahalli Forest, only true foreast patch within city limits, to be opened up for public.

Enjoy your visit!

Bheemasandra Kere : Lake with a rich diversity

Location: Bheemasandra Kere, near Tumkur, Karnataka
Date: Mar 11th, 2021
To get there: [Click here for Google Map].

It is about 10 km from Tumkur and is one of the two lakes located at the outskirts of Tumkur called Imran Mushtaq Twin Lakes. It is located adjacent to the town Melekote. The two lakes are locally called Melekote Kere and Bheemasandra Kere. We did not plan where to start exactly and ended up reaching the lake bund at its southernmost point by going through Melekote. Roads were narrow but our car made it through safely. We parked on the mud road next to the bund and walked along the canal eastwards and then north after we crossed over the canal at a bridge. This path continues along the lakeside until it reaches the Sewage Treatment plant, at which point we are at Bheemasandra Kere. We walked along the west side of the STP observing the lake all along and backtracked to our starting point along the same path.
Trail type: Muddy walking path in the half circumnavigation we did of the lake. Not sure about the other half but should be the same. The total distance, if we one can go fully around the lake, maybe 4 to 5km. We did about 2 km out and 2 km back.
Facilities: None at the lake. Melekote village is adjacent on the eastern side.

A casual conversation on March 10th with my friend in Tumkur who is an avid bird watcher revealed that both of us were free the following day, which was a public holiday. So, we used that the best way possible, that is to go Bird Watching! The choice was between lake habitat or forest habitat both of which are very good around Tumkur. We settled on a lake in hopes of seeing migrant ducks.

We left Bangalore early morning and reached Tumkur for an early breakfast of their famous Thatte idlis and Dosas. Soon after, we headed towards the lake using Google for guidance. Unfortunately, Maps was not aware of bird-watching spots around the huge lake. It guided us onto open fields and muddy roads which my car was reluctant to go on. Somehow we navigated ourselves back into Melekote village and using my friend's memory and guidance of villagers, we managed to reach the southernmost point of the twin lakes. Not exactly where we had intended. But as with life, it turned out to be excellent giving us a nice surprise, as you will find out.

 

As soon as we got out of the car, we were greeted by warblers, babblers in the bushes, and cormorants flying overhead. But our attention was drawn towards a wagtail on the paddy fields which we found was a Yellow Wagtail. As we watched it hopping around and wagging its tail, we got the surprise sighting of a Bluethroat male feeding in a small stream alongside the fields. We stood mesmerized at the beautiful colors forming a necklace at its throat (hence the name) and watched its antics for a good 10 to 15 mins before reluctantly starting out for our bird walk. 

A canal runs next to the lake bund and we walked on its side past a check gate until we came to a bridge. On this path, a small pond and some woods on the other side of the lake gave us sightings of cormorants, swamphen, kingfisher, warblers, swallows, and drongos. In addition, a Marsh Harrier gave us a flyby, Greater Spotted Eagle a fly overhead, as well as a water snake a swim by! We crossed over the bridge to get on a wide mud road along the lakeshore. We could now see the wide expanse of the lake and plenty more water birds. On the other side was a large and thick patch of reeds. As we stood looking at the reed bed we caught a glimpse of a crake which came out to feed and immediately scuttled back into the reeds barely giving us a chance to take a photo. But the view was sufficient to identify it as Ruddy-breasted Crake. On our way back, the crake was kind enough to re-appear at the same spot giving us heart-fulfilling views. This plucky and shy bird was managing to survive in a disturbed reed patch. One hopes it continues to do so and raises a family successfully.

The muddy trail took us past the point where a man-made bund separates the lakes to get us on Bheemasandra Kere to the north side. Far off we could see a flock of Garganey and another of Spot-billed ducks. At one point along this path, there was a beautiful and serene pool of water which was full of Black-winged Stilts feeding and enjoying themselves. Among them, we could also spot the Wood Sandpiper. Soon we reached a Sewage Treatment Plant (STP).

As we walked in through the gate, my friend directed my attention to underneath the concrete walkways across the STP sections.  Wow. It was an intricate network of nests built by the Streak-throated Swallows and a sight to behold. 100s of them were flying around while quickly popping in and out of their mud nests. It was hypnotizing to watch their energetic activity with no letup. Reluctantly, we continued along the STP edge until we reached the north point of the lake to be greeted by the sight of Garganeys and Northern Shovelers sitting like school children in a line on the posts of a submerged fence.

By this time the sun was high. Hot and tired we headed back along the same path to reach our parked car around noon. Along the way, in addition to the birds, we had seen, we got to observe frenzied feeding of the Blue-tailed Bee-eaters.  When we reached our car as if on cue, the Bluethroat came out and hopped around the bushes and we could have sworn waved goodbye to us!

It was a great birding outing. As always sad to see some of the human activity close to the lake which is bound to destroy this beautiful habitat and with it the bird diversity. Hopefully, it will be limited and the birds will continue to visit this lake as they escape the harsh winters and provide us the pleasure we experienced that day as our guests for a few months in the year.

Click below for the:

Ebird Checklist

Photos Album