Assams Amazing Avifauna

 

Tambuli Wetland

Trip Itinerary:  

- Guwahati (Port of entry/exit)
- Pobitora : 1 day
- Meghalaya curated tour : 6 days
- Chandub : 1 day
- Kaziranga : 2 days
Dates: Nov 15th to 25th, 2025
Travelling: We travelled by hired cab between the spots.
Facilities: We stayed mostly in resorts close to the sanctuary places. Bird life was abundant in all. Food was mostly rice based with basic dhal. We tried some local dishes at our stays. Guwahati city while driving to and from airport was quite dusty and hot. We got a good guide at both Pobitara and Kaziranga.

This is our Assam part of our North East India trip. The reason for including Assam for what was primarily a Meghalaya trip is the Guwahati airport. Shillong is too small and prone to cancellations. So, since we were here anyway, we added a day before and 3 days after to experience some of Assam also.

Click here for the blog on Meghalaya part of the trip.

One-horned Rhino

Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary was on our itinerary because our guide felt we would enjoy sighting the One-horned Rhino here where it was less crowded and was closer to Guwahati than at Kaziranga. That was true. It was smaller and very few tourists. Rhino sighting was easier and closer. But we got an unexpected bonus with the stop as we did some awesome birding mostly because of our guides. The evening safari was guided by Narruttam from forest department along with Ujjal a research intern. Both excellent birders and naturalists who were very nice to help us explore the area. 

Tambuli wetland which we visited in the morning was unplanned and as they say that turned out be the one of the best experiences of our trip. It was about 2 to 3 kms from our place of stay but we got to ride on scooters, also fun!, to the wetland instead of walking up. The bird life was good in the sanctuary but the Tambuli wetland was just out of the world for us personally. The place was teeming with water birds, wading, swimming and flying in as we stood on the road in awe,  with a backdrop of grasslands where we could spot the One-horned Rhino as well as the Water buffaloes. Assam government thankfully has ensure this spot is not disturbed with guards in station all around 25/7. Our only regret was that we could stay only for few hours and we didn't have a spotting scope.

Boat ride to Chandubi Lake Stay

Mynas and Starlings bathing
Bronze-winged Jacana

Chandubi was picked as a stop over on our way back from Meghalaya for our Kaziranga stint since the drive would be too long otherwise. It turned out to be a lovely lake with a rustic resort on the banks that we reached via an optional short boat ride as there was road access too. The place was quiet with plenty of lake birding as well as forest birding along the shore. 


We had only few hours in the evening and morning, so our walk was barely a kilometer each time on the same path. Highlight was spotting 100s of Red-breasted Parakeets coming to roost on the trees along the bank. We also got to witness a cute sight of Mynahs and Starlings, taking bath in polite turns in the water channels that were irrigating the farmland along the banks.

Favourite pastime



Culture show

We drove from Chandubi past Guwahati to Kaziranga. On the way itself, there were couple of view points where we skirted the vast national park and its incredible grassland habitat. Rhinos, Hog deers and Buffaloes were all easily visible from these. On reaching our stay, Habitas by Rhino, we were early enough to make it to catch a well done culture show at the Orchid Park which was close by. We explored the park itself the next day to see their collection of many varieties of Orchids, and 20 zones show casing aspects of Assam heritage and culture.


Agaratoli Habitat

Bar-headed Geese
There are different ranges for Safari in Kaziranga. Eastern, West, Central by jeep and the short one on Elephant. We picked Eastern(Agaratoli) in the morning as it had the most diverse train of grasslands, wetlands and forest area also. Our aim was bird watching and this gave us the best opportunity. Jeep safaris are independently operated with Sanctuary permission at Kaziranga. Our resort organized one for us with a driver who had some knowledge of birds on our request. Bhaikon delivered perfectly for us. Spotting, identifying and giving us enough time to take in the sightings. 

Hog deer
Of course we saw all the usual mammals too, Rhinos, Buffaloes, Deers, Elephants  and with the highlight of a huge Python. Birds were plenty and I got to see many migratory Bar-headed Geese for the first time! Overall, we thorougly enjoyed this track that took over 3 hrs to finish from gate to exit.


On Elephant Safari
Final day morning was the Elephant Safari which is more of an experience than for any nature sightings. Rhino is guaranteed as a few hang out near the trails itself. Bird watching is near impossible with the few stops and the Elephant making sure you are having a roller coaster ride. So, fun for elderly and kids but not for serious nature enthusiasts. 

Overall, we enjoyed all our stays in Assam which was teeming with avi fauna in stark comparison to Meghalaya where they were mostly absent in the places we travelled. Birding especially was very good and to our hearts content.


Assam Photo Album

Ebird Trip Report



Mystical Meghalaya

Megaliths at Mawplang Sacred Grove

Trip Itinerary: Meghalaya (fully curated by tour guide), Assam (part curated). 

- Guwahati (Port of entry/exit)
- Pobitara(Assam) : 1 day
- Cherrapunje : 3 days
- Shillian Joshar : 1 day
- Tyrna : 2 days
- Chandubi(Assam) : 1 day
- Kaziranga(Assam) : 2 days
Dates: Nov 15th to 25th, 2025
Travelling: We travelled by car driven by guide.
Facilities: All places were well developed with good resort or home stays, from 1 to 3 star level. Roads were good for the most part unless construction was going on. Places were clean and trash minimal. People professional and helpful. Most of them spoke English. Tyrna had a restriction of tourists not allowed to wander after 8pm. Food was mostly rice based with basic dhal. Maggi was very popular. Bread available in higher resorts or on request.

Click here for the Assam part of the trip.

Landed in Guwahati and in East India for the first time! which I personally always feel is almost like another country. The beauty of India and its diversity at its most extreme when a South Indian visits East India. Our ride, Bishar, received us at the airport and after a day stop at Pobitara, we crossed over to Meghalaya and Alfred our guide and driver for Meghalaya took over. 

Our first stop was at Umiam Lake view point, where we stopped for few mins, then onto Mawplang Sacred Grove. Our host there had set up a tent and table just for us. She had arranged a picnic lunch, bursting with local flavors, at the edge of a large grassland with the Sacred grove in our sight. Perfect welcome to Meghalaya. The landscape was indeed like 'Scotland of the East'! We then walked into the Grove with another guide telling us about its significance and rituals that make it sacred. The fascinating part was the rule of nothing taken out or into the grove. 

We reached Cherrapunjee late evening but dark already as sunset is at 5pm here. It was quite cold so a hot dinner with good soup was most welcome. No rain was predicted for the 5 days we were in an area that receives the highest rainfall in the country as we had unintentionally timed our trip in the few weeks its dry! Lucky or did we miss out on a spectacle? Have to make another trip to answer that.




During the time we were in Cherrapunjee, we made 2 day trips. One to explore caves and another for waterfalls. Both were enjoyable. Water was freezing cold... but so clear and clean that we braved it and splashed around. All tourist points were reached after a small trek with entry fees of 50 to 100 Rs. Toilets were 10 Rs. Life vests was mandatory if we wanted to into deeper areas and were available for rent. Overall, the tourist spots were well organized and not crowded enabling us to enjoy to our hearts content. Well done Meghalaya!

Living root nest

Living root ladder
Our stay at Shilliang Jashar was with Babah (LRS Retreat) who met us around noon with his 10yr old son to guide us. Destinations were a Living root nest and a ladder both of which were lovingly crafted by the root experts. The walk to and from the locations was fun which is a daily routine for the villagers. Babah picked up leaves and other edibles along the trail for our picnic lunch which we had in a wild farm. He had packed some some rice and meat but made the salad and chutney with things he picked up and some ingredients. Highlight was grinding the chutney with a bamboo utensil cut there itself and discarded! Truly living in the wild. An interesting aspect of the local culture was how Babah cut a walking stick for us which he then left at the start of the trail as we exited for someone else who may need it.

Muthoks farm

Next we drove to Pung Weikyan called weavers village. There Muthok who is working on local agricultural practices was our guide along with his active and voluble mother. Got to wander around their village for a few hours along with a farm visit and lunch. For lunch, they had collected 10 different types of just leaves and kept them in a basket like salad. No dressing or even salt. Just pick a few and munch along with rice! All were edible but I liked 2 or 3 of them only as they were juicy.

Relaxing on a root bridge



Our last stop was Tyrna where we stayed at a simple no frills place homestay, Gods gift. This was close to the double decker root bridge start point. We chose to skip that popular destination as it would a full day. Instead we visited Ummunoi and Umkar root bridges that are accessible by a shorter trek and had enough time to have lunch at Cherrapunje First resort with awesome views.

The last day was just a long drive into Assam and Chandubi lake. 

Birding and nature watching was poor in the state. The reason is probably because the birds and animals have been hunted for many years. Some we sighted were highly skulky and would disappear quickly into foliage. Understandable! 

Meghalaya Photo Album

Checlists:

Cafe Cherrapunje

Tyrna