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| Local boat into Alleppey backwater community |
Our much-desired and always postponed, vacation in the famed Kerala backwaters happened only because a friend suggested staying together at Rain Forest resort in Athirappilly since they were planning a family visit to that area. Just the trigger we needed! We added about 6 days of travel around Kerala before we joined them and that of course included a houseboat stay!
Kumarakom Backwaters - Backwater Breeze Homestay - 2 days
Alleppey - Riverinecruises Houseboat - 1 day
Fort Kochi - Mothers Inn Homestay - 2 days
Athilrappilly - Rain Forest Resort - 1 day
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| Timings |
Time, comfort, or convenience was not a factor for us which let us explore Kochi public transport fully. We landed at around 10am and had several hours to reach our homestay, Backwaters Breeze, Kumarakom for lunch. Coming out of Kochi airport, its metro feeder bus stop to Aluva, the north endpoint of Kochi Metro, is just a few hundred metres away. We boarded one after resting in a comfortable waiting area for about 15mins. The bus was clean and comfortable. From
Aluva to
SN Junction, its last stop Metro took about an hour where we alighted. We took an Auto instead of walking to the nearest local Bus stop. When we told the driver our final destination, he advised us to take a bus to
Vaikom first and then another to Kumarakom. Convinced, we boarded the next local with the local commuters on way to Vaikom which came almost immediately. It was a basic bus and crowded but clean. The bus stop at Vaikom was large and nice. However the bus to our destination was not there and didn't arrive for almost 30 mins! Many locals who were also waiting for the same bus gave us good company. Since this was exactly the type of experience we desired we were quite contented waiting along without getting anxious. :). It was a short ride from there and we took an auto (2 km) from final stop to our homestay. Overall it was easy and fun as long as you have the time and don't care much for comfort.
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| Metro feeder bus at Kochi Airport |
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| Kochi Metro |
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| Inside Kochi Metro |
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| Vaikom Bus Stop |
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| Bus from Vaikom to Kumarakom |
The breakup for this leg for those interested in details (like me :) ).
Cost Mode From to destination
120 bus kochi airport to aluva metro
120 metro aluva to SN Junction, thripunithara
50 auto station to bus stop
66 bus thripunithara to vaikom
46 bus vaikom to kaipuzhamuttu
80 auto kaipuzhamuttu to backwaters breeze
Total: 482 Rupees (4hr30mins).
Airport prepaid quoted 3300 Rupees (~2hrs)
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| Balcony view Backwaters Breeze, Kumarakom |
After our slow but fun commute, it was a nice lunch near the homestay with our first taste of Kerala fried fish with awesome views at their dabha like minimal partner restaurant. Homestay is simple and comfortable enough for us with some wonderful views from the long balcony. Here we did mostly birdwatching, eating, and relaxing. One of the days (9am to 4pm) we walked all the way to Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, about 3kms which was quite strenuous. Sanctuary itself was well-kept and wonderful to walk through but birds were scarce. We did enjoy encounters with Tortoises and Monitor lizards quite up close. We chose to take an ad-hoc boat, a bit of backwater experience, on the way back to drop us off near the road and then took an auto back to our homestay. Birdwatching around the homestay was quite fruitful. Highlight was 10s of Blue tailed Bee-eaters and 100s of Baya weavers foraging in the morning and evenings over the fields.
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| Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary Map |
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| View from Homestay balcony |
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| Lunch on Homestay balcony |
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| Lunch in adjoint partner restaurant |
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| Sunset over backwaters from homestay |
Our next activity was a night in House boat. We had booked for a 1 BR houseboat with TIK Holidays. Our host suggested
public ferry run by Kerala State Water transport to cross Lake Vembanad to Muhamma first and then auto or bus. This was great advice as public ferry was like a tourist activity for just 10Rs with lovely views of the huge lake. There was autos available at Muhamma Jetty. We could take one to the closest bus stop and then a bus to Alleppey or directly by auto to our boathouse. We chose the latter as we didn't have time. It was a quick 45 min ride and soon we were checking out our comfortable houseboat.
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| Inside Ferry to Muhamma |
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| Ferry doing U Turn at boarding point |
The houseboat experience was exciting and fun as it was the first time for us. Our trip went something like this. 12noon check-in. We sailed out into the backwaters quickly and had freshly prepared lunch while docked alongside the channel. We continued to sail among 10s or even 100s of other boats deeper into the channels. Around 5pm, a local boatman came alongside and offered a ride in a small boat into the narrower channels where local people resided for 1000 Rs.(2 of us). We took the offer and felt it was well worth it as it gives a glimpse of the backwater community, ex we saw school children dropped back home in a boat! Docked for night and had dinner of freshly cooked tiger prawns that were purchased by us at a shop along the way. Morning breakfast and returned to starting point by 10am.
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| Lunch on houseboat |
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| Fresh catch from Backwater Fish shop |
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| Relaxing on houseboat |
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| Local boat into Backwater village |
Our next stop was Fort Kochi. We decided to stop for an hour to check out Marari beach which was along the way. Since the beach was a little bit inside from the bus route, we were advised to book an auto which would take us to the beach, wait an hour and then drop us back on the highway. This worked well. Beach itself is small with not much to do other than walk up and down. The bus ride to Fort Kochi was fun as it started raining.
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| Bus to Fort Kochi |
Soon, we reached our homestay, Mother's Inn and settled into their quaint little heritage house turned into a B&B. Evening, we walked to Vasco Da Gama Square, checked out the Chinese fishing nets and ate at Kashi Art Cafe. We capped off the night with a show on Kathakali. Next day, we took an auto to Mattancherry and roamed around the Jew town. It has the 500 year old Paradesi synagogue. Our lunch was at Ginger House which has a very scenic dining place overlooking the port. Return was by local bus and we took the obligatory Kerala oil massage near our homestay. Finally it was onto our last stop in Athirappilly.
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| Kathakali at Fort Kochi |
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| Lunch at Ginger House, Mattancherry |
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| Murals in Mattancherry |
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| Jew town Mattancherry |
Here we used the newly launched Kerala Water Metro to cross the bay to Ernakulam by taking a local ferry to Vypin just to try it out. It was worth it and done very nicely. From Ernakulam we took what was advertised as express bus to Chalakudy from where we could get another bus to Athirappilly. However we were late and the bus was definitely not express, stopping everywhere. So, we hopped off midway and booked a taxi to our resort. This ensured we just made it before lunch closed. Of course with more time we would have stayed on as the connecting local bus stops at the entrance of the resort itself.
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| Kochi Water Metro |
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| Mothers Inn Homestay Fort Kochi |
Athirappilly resort is very well designed and located. We thoroughly enjoyed the visual treat that it provided every which way you look out from the resort. The following day, we took an auto to Vazhachal waterfalls which is about 5km away and walked back on the highway. This is surely fun and adventurous to do if you have the time and are fit, as it provides up close experience of the forest, Chalakkudy river and the Charpa waterfalls on foot while the traffic struggles along the congested narrow hill road alongside. We had lunch at a local restaurant and left by cab to catch our flight out that day evening from Kochi airport.
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| Rain Forest resort Athirappilly |
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| Dining @ Rain Forest resort |
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| Swimming @ Rain Forest resort |
Overall a very memorable trip. It gave us a taste of why Kerala is such a great affordable destination for a vacation. All the people we interacted with were genuinely friendly and great hosts. Nature wise we enjoyed our stay at Kumarokom where we did some good birding. House boat ride also went by many good spots, some with huge number of water birds. Unfortunately they were too far and we couldn't stop to observe and photograph properly. Our home stay at Fort Kochi had such a good garden that it even hosted resident peacocks among others. On our highway walk in Athirappilly we were very lucky to spot both the Malabar Pied Hornbill and Malabar Grey Hornbill foraging on the same tree.
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| Charpa Waterfalls |
Ebird Checklists (along with bird images):
Image album links:
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